Thursday 19th December
Transit day.
Greg transfers the last of his photos to the laptop. He has quite a lot lol. I have a quick look through and pick a few for my blog. I was going to limit it to 6 but went well over. There are so many good photos. You’ll have to see them on his page when he gets them culled and posted.
We check out and go to the airport. Kasane international airport. It’s tiny and I think at the moment there is only one flight a day. Does have decent wifi so I manage to upload my blog post on Botswana. The plane is late but the turn around is quick and we take off early. The attendant comes around with lunch, choice of chick roll or beef wrap. I ask if she has a vegan one and she replies no but she does have one vegetarian one. Then as she’s picking it up she goes ‘oh are you Barbara? Yes and there is my special vegan meal. Greg takes the vegetarian one. We reach J’burg and do the transit thing. It’s tiring doing nothing. The Air Namibia plane is also late and people are getting grumpy. Apparently we’re waiting for the catering to arrive. A bit ironic as it turns out. We eventually get onboard and take off, 30 minutes late. The attendant comes through with the food. We were expecting dinner and are handed a tiny bag of Biltong. I call her back as ask for a vegan option. She says that is the only option but she will check if business class has anything. She comes back and says there is a vegetarian pasta that they will bring through shortly. Great but the business attendant comes through a bit later to tell me that someone in business class asked for it so naturally they got it. Our first attendant explains that it is the new ‘service’. I take it they have downgraded to a budget style airline. So by the time we reach Windhoek, we are tired and hungry. The bags are slow coming through and it’s well after 9pm before we exit and meet our driver/guide, Pagge. He will be with us for the whole time in Namibia. Feel quite posh lol. He is 27, and has two children and a girlfriend. He has a flash company SUV for our journey though it will be landcruisers when we are actually in the parks. Pagge stops at a service station on the way to our hotel so we can buy something to eat for dinner. Limited options so we end up eating vegetarian not vegan but needs must and I’m not being too hardline on it all at the moment.
Pagge asks if we want a 8am start tomorrow or 9am. We go for 9am, it’s been a long day.
20th December
We leave Windhoek and sealed roads behind us and head into the desert. We are staying at Elegant Desert Lodge for 2 nights. It is in the Namib desert.
Namibia is named for this desert. Before it was called South West Africa. It was colonised by Germany and there are still many German influences here. During WW1 it was occupied by South Africa and remained in South African hands afterwards. Apartheid was then rolled out with the tribes all being separated into different regions. It gained independence in 1990 and has only had 3 Presidents since then.
We’re driving through a fascinating landscape, totally different to New Zealand and also Botswana. The soil/dirt is so pale in colour it looks white. The ground is littered with rocks, jagged, uncomfortable. There are high mountain ranges, bare, some red tinged, some greenish. Some mountains have very defined layers creating horizontal stripes contrasting with the jagged tops. There are small scrappy bushes sparsely scattered. It’s a hard harsh land. Greg gets Page to stop often so he can take photos. Definitely advantageous to be the only ones.
We see Steenbok, I thought it was a hare bounding across the road. We then see Hartmann Mountain Zebra. They’re quite shy and move away quickly when we drive along.
When we get to the lodge we get a choice of an air conditioned room in the main complex by the pool and wifi or a fancy tent 10 minutes drive away. The tent looks pretty cool but it’s about 40 degrees so the pool and the air conditioning wins easily.
After lunch we go for a refreshing swim. It’s so magical. As we laze on a couple of loungers looking out at the desert, Greg asks me to marry him. Of course I say yes. He’s so romantic, just love it. And him.
We just get back to our room when an a Oryx walks up to the feeding trough just off our patio. Unbelievable! Greg sits in our room with his camera on the tripod taking photos.
We have drinks and dinner sitting at the front of the lodge in view of another Oryx feeding by a water trough. The setting sun is turning the hills amazing hues of red. Then the stars start appearing. The international space station passes overhead. This is totally a pinch me moment. We shine a torch at the water trough and there is kudu and oryx there. It’s hard to drag ourselves back to our room but we have a early wake up tomorrow to catch the sunrise over the Sossusvlei sand dunes. Never mind we still have tomorrow night here.
21st December
We leave the lodge fairly early, just after 6am to get to the park gate when it opens. We are car number 54 in and the sun is already up lol. The road in the park is sealed which makes it a smooth drive. We’re driving between massive sand dunes along the river valley. Although the last time water flowed here was in 1997. We park in front of Dune 45. Named by the Germans because it’s 45km from the gate. It’s 90 metres high and we climb it. It’s hard going to start, one because we’re not warmed up at all and two because you slip back with every second or third step. Shortly before the first peak the sand firms a bit and it’s easier going. It’s surprisingly steep sided. You look down to a flat grey coloured gravel bed. The dune itself is a deep orange colour. These dunes remain in position because the wind blows one way in summer then the direct opposite in winter. It’s not the highest peak we’ve climbed but we feel a good sense of achievement when we reach the top.
Once we get back down again and Greg’s taken plenty of photos, we drive on. The sealed road ends and we’re driving on sand. The texture is like velvet, or maybe corduroy, the tyre treads providing the grooves. We park and eat our packed breakfasts. Then walk over a few low rises to the Deadvlei. It’s surreal, otherworldly. The valley floor is clay, baked white in the sun. It’s texture is like mud pats. Rising out of the clay are dark fossils of camelthorn trees, parched in the sun. Their bark cracked and gnarled. All around are the steep sides of the dunes. The largest of all is the Big Daddy and it’s at the top of the valley. Tiny black dots are people on top of it. It’s 350 metres and is apparently the highest in the world.
There is an oryx grazing beside the track, quite unfazed by the people walking by. Greg gets some good photos. Oryx are pretty intelligent. They just eat small bits from every bush so the bushes don’t die.
It’s cloudy and even rains, fat drops that vanish into the parched, thirsty earth.
The last stop in the park is the Sesreim Canyon. It’s 30 metres deep and 3km long. We peer down before descending into it. It’s hot down there and the calls of the baboons echo along the canyon.
Then it’s back to the lodge for a late lunch. After such great vegan food in Botswana, I’d expected the same here in Namibia. More fool me. They don’t even seem to understand what I mean. Today I was offered lasagna, then a chicken wrap. In the end I just have a side salad, same as yesterday. It has a sprinkling of feta which gives it some protein but means it’s not vegan. I’m a little disappointed as everyone was certainly informed in advance by Sandi, our travel agent, but I guess if they don’t even know what vegan or vegetarian is then they’re not going to be able to cater for it. I don’t want to be difficult but I do want to eat and at the prices we’re paying, I kinda expected better.
After lunch we hit the pool again then relax until dinner. If the cloud clears we’re going to drive over the the tent complex and climb a hill to watch the sunset. Not got my hopes up though, the cloud doesn’t look like it’s going anywhere soon.
The cloud doesn’t lift at all and it actually rains just as we sat down with predinner drinks. We move inside for a bit. The staff are quickly bringing all the table settings and cushions in too. The rain does stop and we do go back outside for dinner but there is no sunset and no stars, also no animals at the water trough tonight.
22nd December
We check out and head north to Solitaire for coffee and a slice of their famous apple pie. The clouds have completely gone and it’s clear blue sky. North further to the Tropic of Capricorn. We see some oryx, springbok and zebra but it’s more about the landscape here. I do wonder how anything survives here. It’s an existence not a life.
Unworldly, hills orange, ground yellow and plants grey.
Wide, wide gravel road, where everyone has found their own route.
There is no water in Namibia, just rivers of sand and rock.
We pass through rifts where the land has ripped itself apart.
Constantly changing landscape but always arid, dry, harsh.
The vastness of the savanna. There are mountains but the flat land goes around them and beyond.
Kueb Pass. Huge mounds of slate and a empty riverbed. A pass going down and up not up and down. Hot as the sun bounces back of the dark rock. Nothing green to moisten the air.
When there are trees, Acacias, they are growing in a line. Their deep roots following an underground stream.
Corrugations so bad, the front shudders at a different beat to the back of the car. The panel above the headlight pops off. It’s called the African massage.
The horizon disappearing into a heat haze.
We stop to look at some very old plants. They’re called Welwitschia mirabillis. The first one we view is a male and between 1000 and 1500 years old. Nearby is one aged between 50 to 60 years, same age as us. We’ve a bit bigger though. It’s about 10cm in diameter. They only grow two leaves and they are tough, very tough. Almost like lead to touch.
Our next stop is an area known as the moonscape. Contorted rock as far as we can see. No animals can survive here. Only a few reptiles and even they struggle.
We come across a couple with a flat battery. We push start them. Not a good place to break down. They were lucky we came along.
After that we head for the coast and Walvis Bay to see the flamingos. They line the beach, both the greater flamingo which is grey coloured and the lesser flamingo which is the pink one. It’s cool to see them coming in to land, they lower their legs and run a few steps.
Then it’s back into the car and drive north along the coast, between the sea and the huge dunes to Swakopmund, which is where we’re staying tonight. It’s the Atlantic coast again, lol it’s windy of course. There are lots of ships offshore and oil platforms. It’s very hazy so everything is soft focused.
Our accommodation is called The Stiltz and is thatch roofed cottages on stilts situated on the mouth of a dry river. It’s all connected by high boardwalks. Looking out the windows, the sea is just there. There are flamingos to one side. It smells lovely thanks to the fresh thatch and we flop down on the couch and put our feet up. We’ve got an hour until we go off to watch the sunset and then to a waterfront restaurant for dinner.
Unfortunately the sun disappears into low cloud before it reaches the horizon so no sunset. It’s actually cold! Well, I guess just cool but both of us dig out jeans and jackets for the evening. The restaurant is called The Tug and has a tug boat inside. It is now the bar and we sit in there for a bit before our table is ready. Greg and Pagge have freshly caught fish and I have a spinach pie. We’re all very full when we leave. Luckily we have a sleep in tomorrow. 8am breakfast for a 9am departure.
23rd December
We leave Swakopmund and it’s straight back into a desert. We’re driving 80km up the coast. The road is straight, no bends or curves. The beach on our left, white capped waves crashing erratically on the shore. On our right it’s endless sand. We stop at a shipwreck. I’m figuring that the tidal current of the Atlantic coast means this is where ships and other things end up. It’s called Skeleton Coast because of the amount of skeletons washed up here, both sailors and ships.
We’re driving along a Chinese built road. The Chinese bring in all their own equipment but do employ locals. Apparently though, they cut the legs off the wheelbarrows so the workers can’t rest at all.
We turn inland and the temperature slowly picks up. Tonight’s destination will be in the early 40’s. Hot. Last night it was 16.
Again we’re driving wide gravel roads. The highest mountain in Namibia, Brandburg, is on our left and gradually grows as we get nearer. It looks impressive as it rises straight out of the desert.
We pass roadside stalls selling stones collected from the mountain. These are arranged by colour and arrayed in painted tyres propped on sticks. There are ‘people’ made from tree branches dressed in old clothes.
The landscape gets hilly, less sand, more rocks. More scrappy bushes. This is Damaraland. We stop at a Humba village. Page takes photos of us with the woman. There is a little girl, one year old, who was quite taken with my Pounamu necklace. She was very cute and tries to snuggle up to me.
We pass over another dry river bed but hang on, there is water! Brown fast running. Pagge pulls over and stops. This is rare. It must have rained upstream in Etosha.
Our accommodation tonight is a tented camp. We’re tent one and it, like the others are sheltered in against great rocks. There is an outside bathroom, shower, basin and toilet. At dusk they will bring around a battery to power the lights. Our tent is about 10 minutes walk to the bar, pool and restaurant. It’s remote and very very hot. We dump our bags and hit the pool. Pagge comes over a bit later and tells us it’s 41degrees. I suspect that here, nestled between these big rocks, it’s hotter. Certainly feels it and of course there is no air conditioning anywhere, no wifi either. Back at our tent there is a breeze but it’s not cold. Clouds have formed and we can hear thunder.
The site is by a waterhole used by desert elephants but it’s dry at the moment, has been for several months so the elephants aren’t visiting.
Despite our suffering, it is an amazing place, I sit on the front porch and look out at red dirt, sparse low trees and rock outcrops all the way to the horizon. Off to one side, partially hidden by a rocky outcrop is the roof of another tent. With luck this cloud will go away and we will have full on stars tonight. Or maybe tomorrow. We’re here for two nights.
Just before sunset we climb the rocky outcrop, the koppie as it is called here. Greg goes up a chimney and I chose to go around. He makes it to the very top, I don’t lol. It’s not an amazing sunset as there is still some cloud about unfortunately. Maybe tomorrow night.
Dinner is cooked on an open fire and was tasty. Then Pagge drives us back to our tent with the warning that sometimes they have leopards around here so not to go walking at night. Okay, no problem with that advice.
24th December
Today we drive a loop. First stop was the Petrified Forest. It’s not actually a forest but rather tree trunks that washed up here during ice ages when all land was still Gondwana. The organic material of the trunks was conserved. Due to enormous pressure and over a period of millions of years even the finest structures of the wood have been dissolved by silicic acid and replaced by quartz, which is silicic acid in crystalline state. The result is perfectly conserved and completely petrified trunks. They have been dated 280 million years and the trees were at least 150 years old before they died. The story is more impressive than the sight for plebs like us. As stone it is incredibly heavy, more so than normal stone. In a few places it is hollow and sounds different when you tap it.
The following stop is the Damara living museum. It is a group (family) of Damara people demonstrating the traditional way of life. They go through herbal medicines, games, jewellery making, tanning hides and making clothing. They finished with starting a fire and then singing and dancing.
Next stop was the burnt mountain and the organ pipes, both very old geological features.
Last stop was Twyfelfontein Rock Art. These are pictures of animals carved in the red sandstone boulders by the bushmen. They’ve been dated at between 3500 and 6000 years old. It strikes me this country ages very slowly. In any other place, the art would have been eroded by rain or covered by dirt or smothered in plants. Here they look like they were just done, the rocks haven’t even crumbled away.
After that we stop for lunch at Twyfelfontein lodge. There is free wifi so I sent a couple of merry Christmas messages to family. It’s weird to think tomorrow is Christmas Day.
Then it’s back to our place and straight into the pool. It rained this morning while we we’re driving but this afternoon it’s back to be hot, very hot. There are a lot more people here now, mostly South Africans.
We climb the koppie again for sunset and are joined by a young British couple who we then sit with for dinner and have a great chat.
25th December. Merry Christmas Everyone.
It doesn’t feel like Christmas at all. We were woken during the night by a rustling in my bag. Turned out to be two large mice. They had eaten through the bag Sense of Africa had given us and into the snack foods I’d stored in there. I use the torch to herd them back out the gaps in the door. Then made sure the zips on the bags are fully shut.
Breakfast, check out and we hit the road. We leave Damaraland and enter Heroland. Different tribe so different style of houses. It’s a lot greener here. It’s the Etosha Conservatory so hopefully wildlife too.
We see a few giraffe, first time since Botswana. We are staying just outside the park gate so can expect wildlife around our cottage. We get a whistle on our keys, not sure if it’s to scare animals away or call for help. We dump our bags and go for lunch then hit the pool to refresh. We’re going for an late afternoon game drive with Pagge.
We drive a few minutes and into the park. We stop at the first waterhole and there is only a couple of springboks so we carry on to the hotel to pay the park fees. There is a big waterhole there with seats around it so you can watch in safety without being in a vehicle. It’s just springboks again and some birds. So we then follow a safari car for a while. They have radio contact so generally know where to go. After viewing some zebra we ask a car coming the other way what they’ve seen and they tell us where a lion is so we head there. Can spot the location from far away, it’s where lots of cars are parked up. The lion is lying by a bush facing away from us and it’s not moving at all. We eventually move on. Then I spot a black rhino! I’m pretty chuffed with myself. It’s not being obligating for photos though. Keeps moving and turning this way and that. Greg keeps muttering – just look up please. It doesn’t lol.
We’re meant to be out of the park by 6pm or there are fines. Luckily African time applies and we’re fine being 10 minutes late.
As it’s Christmas Day the dinner buffet is extra special, this means lots and lots of meat lol. Kudu, impala and Elan plus lamb, pork on the meat table, whole chickens on the poultry table, heaps of seafood on the seafood table then a table with heated dishes like Baboote and lasagne plus hot veggies. Add a salad table and a cheese table and soup and bread table, a fruit table and a desert table and there is enough food to feed Africa lol. We’re offered a free glass of German wild berry schnapps or local liquor to start and Pagge puts a bottle of wine on the table. He doesn’t drink at all. The display of meat is actually off putting, it’s so much but there are whole carrots and whole potatoes so we eat well. Greg has some seafood – weak! Hahaha.
26th December
We have an early start and I accidentally set the alarm for pm not am so when I wake up it’s 30 minutes past our planned get up time. Quickest shower ever, luckily we sorted the packs last night. Quick breakfast and we board the open air safari vehicle. There is a Portuguese family of 4 and a couple of Turkish girls from Germany.
Our first stop is the waterhole just inside the gate. Score! There are 3 lions strolling along. They’re hungry and the springboks know it. They all take off. The two female lions angle apart, padding carefully after them, the male lion sauntering along behind, occasionally sitting down and waiting. Females do all the work but the males get first dips at the food. Charles, our driver thinks they are probably siblings.
We leave them as they disappear from sight. The intention is to head quickly to the East side of the park. Back on the main road and I spot a rhino (again). It’s easier to see and photograph than last nights one.
Further on and we stop for ostrich then zebra. Also jackal, wildebeest, giraffe, oryx, springbok. Then there is radio chatter and we take off, drag racing other vehicles. The African massage becomes a vibration.
There are hyena by the road. Because there are no hills or caves, they sleep in the culverts under the road. These two don’t want to enter with vehicles parked up above them. They circle around and try darting ahead. The second one has clearly had a good feed, the fur around it’s head and forelegs stained red.
More radio chatter and we’re off again. This time its cheetah having been spotted. We’re barreling along a track when a stopped vehicle whistles and flags us down. There are two lions walking towards us. They’re not hunting and they cross the road, female leading, male following. Charles explains pairs will leave the pride for a few days mating. They will mark an area to keep other lions out then do the deed very 30 minutes or so for about 6 days before rejoining the pride. A short distance away there are three lionesses dozing under a couple of low trees.
We carry on to where the cheetah had been seen and there they were, three of them, walking along. They’re absolutely beautiful. Greg complains to me that Charles is constantly moving the vehicle around and not giving enough time to take photos. The Portuguese father has a camera (short zoom lens) but everyone else is using phones.
From there we cruise around an area where leopard are known to habitat but no luck. We then head back to Okaukuejo for lunch. This afternoon we will go west to see the elephant.
On the way we stop at a couple of large groups of zebra. The first has makes fighting between themselves. Charles says there is no leader at the moment so they’re all fighting for supremacy.
A bit further on we’re some more lions, one with broken teeth. Then another group of zebra are grazing but one close to the road has some huge cuts on its flack and leg. Clearly a lion attack that it managed to survive. One wonders if the two are connected.
After lunch we all jump back in the vehicle and lol it won’t start. Charles opens the fuse box and starts fiddling around with a multi tool, still won’t start. Pops the bonnet and starts fiddling around in there, still won’t start. Slides under the vehicle, still won’t start. Back to the fuse box and this time it starts. Doesn’t inspire confidence.
We head off again. It’s hot, very hot. The animals are all sheltering in the shadows of whatever bush they can find. The only crazy species out in the midday heat are the humans. The African air conditioning is blowing wind in our hair and faces but the backs of my thighs are sticking to the seat.
We’re trying to find elephant but fail. We see territory markings for leopard so drive slowly scanning both sides without any success. We see territory markings for rhino but again don’t see the actual animal. The two German girls sleep in the back seat.
I think if anyone is doing a safari, avoid going out in the afternoon.
Some random facts;
The tops of termite mounds always face north east to monitor the sun.
Wildebeest like to follow zebra because zebra eat the tops of grasses and wildebeest like the base. They also compliment each other defensively. Zebra have good eyesight, wildebeest has a good sense of smell.
Impala have a M on their bums. They call them McDonalds – fast food for leopards.
A giraffe kick can kill a lion
Etosha was White mans pronunciation of Etotha, meaning they place where no plants grow’. It was the second ever wildlife reserve, designated by the Germans in 1907. At that time the hunters had eliminated all the lions, elephants and white rhino. There were a few black rhino left in some inaccessible places. The reintroduced them and now monitor and maintain numbers. The park is fully fenced so in times of severe drought they cull. I guess the fence stops them traveling to find water.
We stop at a toilet area and the vehicle won’t start. Multi tool in the fuse box and we get going again. Greg doesn’t thinks it’s been firing on all cylinders all day. It sounds a bit like a lawnmower and sometimes he revs the shit out of it, throwing it through gears to get forward momentum.
We head for the exit without stopping and make it safely back to our lodge. Life is one big adventure.
As I open our door to go for dinner, there are 3 kudu standing there, two female and one male. I quietly call Greg over and he grabs his camera. Then we I actually walk out the door there are another couple on the drive. Greg has to go back for his camera because there is also. Rainbow and a setting sun. By the time we get to the restaurant area there are about 7 kudu around one of the seating areas. Ironically Kudu is on the buffet table for dinner, freshly cooked in front of you. Surely that’s a little to much, who can sit there eating the fresh of the beautiful animals they are looking at.
27th December
We check out and head back into the park. We are crossing it to another gate and our accommodation for tonight at Onguma Private Reserve.
We see more Springboks springing and zebra zzzz-ing. Giraffe and wildebeest. Then as we’re crossing a salt pan we see a cheetah walking, pausing to look around. Eventually it heads back off the pan, shaking its paws and settles by a low bank. We also see Red Hartebeest and tree squirrel. We check out about 5 waterholes but no elephants anywhere.
Our accommodation is a tented camp. It’s very very flash. The tents are wrapped around a waterhole so hopefully we see some action tonight. Pity we’re only staying one night unfortunately. Tomorrow is a big (and nerve wracking) day transiting to Tanzania.
After lunch looking at the waterhole we repack our bags ready for tomorrow, Greg transfers photos to the laptop then we hit the pool. Luxury, swimming in an infinity pool beside impala drinking at the waterhole. The only other people around is a staff worker setting tables for dinner. 4 tables in total so I don’t think there is a lot of people here. The complex has 4 other areas each with their own facilities. It’s all part of a private reserve of 34,000 hectares with all the animal species of Etosha except for elephant. Etosha is just over the fence and apparently herbivores dig under the fence and carnivores uses the same holes.
We do a sundowner tour. Depart our lodge at 5pm and pick up a Dutch family from Belgium at the next area, The Fort. Then we head out. Within 20 minutes we are at a waterhole watching a mother cheetah and her two 2 year old young drinking. She cares for them until they’re about 2 years 5 months and they can kill for themselves then she leaves them. They will be fully grown at 2 & a half.
After that we drive around for another hour and a half and not see a lot. A couple of white backed vultures, a dikdik , the smallest antelope and the usual zebra, impala, kudu, springbok. How quickly we become blaze about some animals.
We then park up to watch the sunset. Unfortunately cloud means it’s not great but Victor, our driver pulls out a table and lays it with snacks and drinks so we enjoy ourselves anyway. Then it’s lights on and back to the lodge. We sit by a fire pit and have another drink watching zebra come to the waterhole. Then dinner. Seriously wish we were here for 2 nights, this place is amazing.
We’re escorted back to our tent and the mosquito net has been drawn and candles lit. Totally indulgent. Pinch me.
28th December
Transit day. Long transit day. Up at 5am. Seven hour drive back to Windhoek airport then three flights to Tanzania. All with short transits. We land at 10 minutes to midnight and still have to do our visas. Which apparently involves 3 queues.
I can’t believe we’re on our last day in Namibia. It’s gone so fast. It’s been an interesting visit. The country is quite varied. It has been a bit ‘drive here, look at that, drive there, look at this’ but I guess that is the nature of tourism.
The countryside we drive through is totally different again. It’s mountainous. There are mines in this area. The road is sealed which makes it smoother and faster. We go though a couple of police checks. Over here they don’t have warrant of fitnesses for vehicles but if it’s not all good at a police check you will get fined.
Pagge likes, and has played all week, sixties big band type music. On our drive today Greg introduces him to William Onyeabor then plays some kiwi tunes.
We leave the mountains behind and the land is flat as far as you can see. We arrive at the airport with 30 minutes to spare. Great enough time for some lunch as we know now that Air Namibia will just have biltong. We even get boarding passes for the next leg. I breathe a sign of relief as that’s a 40 minute transit. The following transit we have 45 minutes to get fresh boarding passes. Our bags are checked all the way through to Tanzania. We are prepared for mishaps and have a carryon with some clothes and shoes.
First transit was great. We were meet at the arrival gate, escorted to point out our bags and then taken through to our departure gate. He even went off and printed our next boarding passes. I saw our bags get loaded onto the plane yay. Hopefully the next transit is as good.
Bugger. Our plane sat on the runway at Nairobi for 20 minutes waiting for a gate. We run but by the time we got to the next gate the plane had gone. Go to the transfer desk and they tell us to call our travel agent!!!! Eventually they say they’ve got us on another flight. Tomorrow morning. Going to be tight for the safari now. Now sitting on the floor waiting for the new boarding passes then we have to do an arrival into Kenya and go to a hotel. No idea if this is going to cost us or not. We’ve been up for nearly 20 hours and not happy.
After 30 minutes they came over and tell us they can’t books us onto the next flight as our flight to Nairobi and the ongoing flight to Tanzania were separate tickets so it’s not their responsibility and we need to contact our travel agent. I had already emailed Sandi and thankfully she was on her computer, midday on a Sunday back home. More emails and she books us onto the flight.
So we go back to the desk to get the boarding passes etc. They can’t find it on there computer and tell us our agent has just made a booking and she needs to issue tickets. That turns out to be just them using Kenya air systems and the flight is Precision Air, which is a subsidiary airline. They phone someone who confirms our tickets and we finally get new boarding passes.
Then it’s our luggage, which is sitting somewhere in transit. They then get them transferred to our new flight.
Finally to us, no hotel because it’s not ‘ their fault’. We ask about the ‘Kenya Lounge’ advertised in a big poster behind them. They say no and anyway it closed at midnight. I’m beyond upset and am just so tired.
We find a row of plastic seats and settle down. It’s the kind of half sleep but we’re both wide awake at 2.15 freezing. They’re upped the air conditioning and I’m shivering. I haven’t got a jacket so put on my space tee over the first one and my linen shirt on top of that. We try to sleep again but it’s too cold so we walk around and find another space. I’m now on a tiled window ledge. Greg’s a little distance away on some seats. More half sleep but by 4.30 I give up and go to the bathroom. Wash my face, clean my teeth, try to feel human. Greg’s given up too so we find somewhere for coffee and something to eat.
We start the Tanzanian Safari this morning so no margin for error now.
I keep telling myself in a year, I will have forgotten the emotion and the sheer exhaustion and will just remember the good times. Travel is all about new experiences and overnighting in an African airport is definitely a new experience.
………
I’m being ruthless with my photo selection. Greg has taken so many great shot you will have to look at his page.
BAGGAB 