Sunday 18th August. – it’s our daughters birthday but for her it’s nearly over, NZ being 11 hours in the future.

We wake to blue sky. Opening the back door, the low sun is turning the ground golden. We’re on a high plateau and 360 degrees around us it’s heath all the way to the horizon. I know there are villages and trees snuggled in the valleys out of sight. Up here on the windy tops it’s just grasses and grouse.

A few birds turn up while we’re eating breakfast so Greg grabs his camera and goes on a grouse shoot.

We plot a course to High Force falls. Turns out High Force is a place name not a description of the waterfall haha. We drive across amazing wild countryside, the wind is howling, the grasses bent completely over. Clouds racing across the sky. We stop often as every turn offers a photo opportunity. It’s so vast, we don’t have any place like this back home.

High Force Waterfall reveals itself as a great volume of tea coloured water plunging 21 metres straight down a rock face from a cleft gouged into the cliff. Bit like Huka falls back home. It’s loud and the water is mesmerising.

It’s starts raining in earnest so we retreat to the warmth of the hotel for hot coffee. Chat with some photographers who have given up on their plans for the day. Really would like more than a few hours of sun in a day…….

We carry on, winding our way across the misty moors and descending in Penrith. My ears pop a couple of times. I didn’t realise how high we were.

By Penrith we park at Mayburgh henge. We have lunch and when the rain eases for a bit go for a walk. The henge only has one remaining standing stone but it is the middle of a level round field surrounded by a stone mound. The stone mound is about 8 metres high on the inside, more on the outside and has an entrance due east. Presumably set by the rising sun. This is Neolithic! As in Stone Age and people have made structures like this with only stone tools. And it would have been so much more than what remains here thousands of years later. Nearby is another Neolithic site which is the partial remains of two earth circles surrounded by a trench and an outer round mound. The thought is that this was a sort of meeting/market place. It’s called King Arthur’s round table because allegedly he used it as a jousting site. Once again I’m amazed that Stone Age people built such huge structures. And what’s the obsession with circles? Greg comments maybe it’s because of the aliens visiting in their flying saucers.

We carry on to the Lake District. First stop Pooley Bridge. It’s busy but the Lake District is a popular UK holiday destination. The rain has eased again so we go for a walk down to the lake and along as far as the public footpath goes. There is someone trying to kneeboard. He keeps falling off and the boat is continuously circling. It must be bl**dy cold. There are kids in raincoats and gumboots splashing in muddy puddles. I remember doing the same when I was young. Carefree fun.

We drive on to the White Horse Inn, under the brooding Blencathra Mountain. This is a pub you can stay overnight in their carpark free if you eat or drink at the pub. We do both and use the wifi. Of course.

At the moment our travels are totally chilled. We’re going where the wind blows us and finding a place to spend the night sometime in the afternoon. This is quite radical for me, the ‘plan for every possibility’ person. Is this changing me? Guess we’ll see when we get back to reality. But I’m also becoming very conscious that I am half of ‘us’ and maybe I’m too controlling. I do recognise because of my childhood I have a need to be in control of my future and present. So can I let go of my past and embrace a different future???

Thursday 15th August

Another morning waking to the sound of rain on the roof. Thankfully it stopped by the time we got to the Glenfinnan Viaduct. I’d read years ago about this amazing viaduct in the middle of nowhere that you could hike up to. Then the Harry Potter movie used it and now it’s Tourist city! They run steam trains four times a day from Fort William to Mallaig along the line in summer so obviously it’s peak viewing time when the train is due to cross. We’d tried to stop 4 days ago and couldn’t so this time we got there 90 minutes before it was due and nabbed the last parking space in the visitor carpark. Join the trail of people walking up the valley. Once again it’s a place I wish we could have seen years ago but the crowds don’t distract from the majestic sight of this viaduct. It’s huge and curves gently across the valley.

We take some photos from below then clamber up to a high point and get ready for the train. There is a lady to one side of us holding a wand and some children come up the other side humming the HP theme song. I wonder if there is anyone here just for the viaduct or the train.

We hit the road again. Skirt around Fort William and down the other side of the loch we stayed on last night. We turn inland at Glencoe. The traffic is crazy busy and the landscape is spectacular. We are crossing the Grampian Mountains through a huge valley with the Coe river beside us. I’ve found us a proper campground for tonight. The laundry is piling up and with the horrible weather I haven’t been able to do any decent hand washing. It’s a pretty camp at the start of the Loch Lomond & Trossachs National Park. There is a stream running behind our plot and the water is clear, first time we’ve seen clear water in days. I think we’re coming out of the highlands now.

16th August

Rain, rain, rain. And to think I smugly said we were going to skip winter by going on holiday for so long. This is just like an Auckland winter! Checking online it is a massive storm over all of the UK so not just Scotland. But they are predicting it will pass in the next 5 days. It will be replaced with a heatwave instead. Haha, if anyone still doesn’t believe in climate change……

Anyhow I am going to be positive.

Coming out of the shower block this morning I notice a caravan with about 20 gnomes arranged in patterns around the front of it. I’m guessing it’s staying for more than one night. It’s not a permanent placement.

We’ve changed our plan to spend a night in the Lake Lomond & Trossach Park and just peer out the windscreen at it all as we drive through. It’s still bucketing down and the temperature gauge is reading 13 degrees. We’re both disappointed but we’re not prepared to wait 5 days for sunshine.

We stop on the outskirts of Glasgow to do a big shop, restock the pantry and replace both our jeans. Greg ripped his majorly the other day and mine have a repair from a month ago. They both getting a lot more wear than we were thinking and it shows. With luck, Murphy’s law will kick in and we won’t need them. Just like the sun hat Greg bought 3 weeks ago.

We lunched on the banks of the river Clyde looking at the Erskine Bridge. Then spent the next hour frustratingly trying to get past Glasgow. The motorway traffic is horrendous.

We go to a small place called Glenbuck. It consists of 3 houses and a coal mine. BUT there is a memorial to Bill Shanky, who was born here in 1913. He went on to become one of Liverpool’s best managers. Greg had added it to our ‘must visit’ list.

I had hoped to spend the night there, alongside a pretty lake but there is a brand spanking new sign saying No Overnight Parking. Bugger! It’s back to the app and find another spot. We end up in a layby area with a truck and a small van. It’s a nothing place and it’s kind of been a nothing day.

We were advised the other day that the English mostly won’t accept Scottish bank notes so it’s probably a good thing we blew most of our folding this morning. Have added finding an ATM to the list for tomorrow.

17th August

We set course for Hadrians Wall. We cross into England on a small country lane having been following signs pointing to ‘The South’ for quite a while. Maybe a bit of attitude there.

We get onto the ‘Hadrians Wall Tourist Route’ and drive past various small sections. Our first stop is the Fort of Birdoswald. Here is the longest continuous stretch remaining. The site is very kid orientated and the remains only the bases of the buildings. This place was continuously occupied after the Romans withdrew from Britain so there are newer building bases over the older ones.

We then drive on along the wall to Housesteads Fort. This is a much better site, it’s the best preserved in Britain complete with the public latrine building typical of the period. It’s located on a hilltop with commanding views The wind is howling but it’s not raining for a change. The ruins give a good understanding of the layout of the fort which was a standard plan for all Roman fort and you can see the underfloor heating in the Commanding Officers house and ventilation in the granaries. In the museum there are remains of the window glass, decorated wall blocks and various pots, buttons, broaches, coins. There are leather shoes and hobnailed soles. It amazes me that life’s comforts today are so similar.

The wall stretches 73 miles from coast to coast and you can walk the entire length. We drive on a bit to a place where the road is still the old Roman road with the wall remains on the left and the earth fortifications on the right. Park up and have lunch. A few hikers pass by. The ones going towards Newcastle have a much easier job than the ones going into the wind the other way. There are signs asking people not to walk in single file as this can impact the stability of the wall. Also not to climb on the wall at all.

Hadrian was a Roman Emperor with some really good ideas. He spread power around to stop the infighting and assassinations of the emperor. It fell down with his replacement. He also decided not to continue trying to take all of the British isles and instead built a wall to defend what they already had. Very sensible, the Scots would never give up and presumably their ancestors were the same. Once again his replacement had different ideas and pushed forward on multiple fronts and it certainly bit the Empire on the ass. Start of the end. The withdrawal of troops from Britain to fight in Turkey, then the later withdrawal of all government meant the economy ceased completely. Roman currency was valueless and the local people, along with the Romans who remained had no choice but to abandon the cities and return to a rural existence. I remember learning years ago that they would carefully remove the window glass and take it home to reuse. They didn’t have the knowledge or raw materials to make it themselves. I used to wonder why the dark ages came after such sophisticated civilisation, now I’m gaining understanding. Knowledge was protected by those in the know. It’s all about power.

We try and find a local pub showing the Football. First one has Sky but Premier has transferred to BT. They tell us to go to another place nearby but when we get there it’s closed. By the time we get to the third, the game is pretty much over but never mind, free wifi means Greg can watch the highlights and we can upload our pages.

We’re now in the North Pennines and have picked a spot to stay the night, close to high force waterfall which we’ll check out in the morning.

Monday 12th August.

Wow, it’s not raining! There is even some small patches of blue sky.

Last night when we walked to the pub we passed a sign for some waterfalls pointing up a side road so this morning after breakfast we went for a walk. As seems to be typical here, you start up the road with the arrow and promptly come to another intersection with no arrows. We chose the one that goes along side the stream, and then come to another intersection, again with no arrows. I resort to Google Maps and we eventually get to the waterfall. This sort of thing seems a regular occurrence particularly with signs for cafes. We have about a 50% strike rate of actually finding advertised cafes. It’s weird to entice customers off the main road and then not direct them to your door.

The waterfall is so-so. The countryside is pretty. There is a hind eating in a field and watches us go by. The roar is due to start in 2 weeks so we may see some action. Driving down the side of Loch Ness we see a much better waterfall going under an old stone bridge. Greg takes photos.

Our route today is along the Caledonian Canal. Designed by Thomas Telford and constructed in the early 1800’s, it connects the east and west coasts of Scotland. Unfortunately by the time it was completed freighter ships were too big to use it. So instead of it becoming a commercial operation it became a tourist one with Queen Victoria taking a trip along it in 1873.

Chatting to a swing bridge controller, they also get fishing boats and wind farm maintenance boats coming through. He says Tuesday Wednesday & Thursday are the busy days and he will be swinging the bridge every 15 minutes. Today is Monday and there’ll only be about 20 vessels. It takes minimal 3 days to get from coast to coast so with weekends off for workers that means Friday to Monday are the quietest days.

Argh one of those afternoons. We go to look at Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in the UK and it pours with rain and the clouds descend so we can’t see anything. So we move on to Glenfinnan, the viaduct from Harry Potter but the carpark is full with 2 guards turning people away. There are cars parked on the side of the road for nearly a mile and we’ve just missed the steam train. Bugger it, we’ll try again on our way back from Mull.

We continue driving down the road until we reach the coast. Actually it’s pretty! The rain clears and we find a sandy beach at the end of a narrow road. Greg goes for a swim despite it only being 13 degrees. We chat to some divers coming out of the sea in full winter weight wetsuits. While we’re talking, one starts pulling rocks out of his waist bag. In the end I ask him is he collecting them, he replies that he doesn’t want to spend the money buying proper dive weights so he just picks up rocks. I totally relate! Must be the Scottish Heritage.

There are signs against camping at the beach so we backtrack to a spot we passed on the way to stay the night. But first, we stop at the local inn, bit too classy to call it a pub, for a drink. It is organic and eco. The food waste is used to create pellets which are burned to provide electricity and hot water not just for the bar but also the restaurant and the hotel. The bar worker is from the Czech Republic working for the summer as part of her education in Marketing and Tourism. We have interesting conversations between her serving other customers. We’ve been to more places in her country than she has.

……..

Relationships and travelling.

You know how you get grumpy/twitchy and want to pick a fight. When you’re traveling with one person, you can’t. Greg and I have lived and worked together for years but we’ve always had space. Now we’re in a small space, as well 90% of the time it’s just us. So tonight when for no reason I’m grumpy I can’t pick an argument because I know he’s wonderful and is doing sweet things, also I can’t escape if we do argue. This means I then have to look inside myself and acknowledge that it’s just me. Ironically the thought process frees me from the angst and I’m happy again. Hopefully I remember the lesson for all time.

We go for a clamber along the rocks lining the loch. The sun is setting, Greg thinks it biblical skies, I just think it’s Mother nature. Different upbringings.

………..

13th August.

When we wake there is a car and two tents beside us. They were not there at 10 last night! And they pack up and go before 8.30. It looked like a family, two adults and two kids. We wonder what their story is.

We drive on towards Lochaline, where a ferry to Mull goes from. It’s a narrow single lane road. We’re off the beaten track here.

Coming around a corner and we see a young hitchhiker so we pull in and pick him up. He’s Belgian, just finished 2 months WOOFing. We talk about Belgium and he’s very impressed we actually went to his hometown, just by Bouillon. Then he tells us he did his last year of high school in Auckland. We ask whereabouts and are told he lived in Titirangi on Scenic Drive and went to Avondale College. Small world! He played Ultimate for the college, took photography, acted in the school play, all so familiar. He, Leo, is 23 so younger than our kids, they wouldn’t have been there when he was but is unbelievable that we pick up someone out of the blue in the wilds of Scotland and have so many connections.

We drop him off and carry on to the ferry. There is quite a queue and we don’t get on the next ferry. Only 5 back so will definitely make the next one. I’m surprised how busy it is. Ferry’s go to Mull from 3 different places, this is the most remote. Also the shortest and the cheapest so that may be why. The weather is alternating between heavy showers and blue sky but it’s not particularly warm.

It’s a quick crossing, only about 15 minutes. The ferry sides are too high to see anything and the clouds overhead are moving in the same direction. Then we drive off and we are on the island of Mull. The landscape is the same as what we’ve been driving through for the last couple of days, maybe more bush lining the road. Glimpses of the sea. We pass a coffee shop but the queue is down the road. Nah!

We go to Duart Castle, the ancestral home of the MacLean Clan. Visiting this place has been on my list ever since I inherited the family bible and learned about the MacLean history.

In the 1691 the MacLean Clan lost the castle and it’s lands to the Campbells and they demolished the castle and scattered the stones from the walls. In 1911 the MacLean laird at the time, Sir Fitzroy MacLean, 10th Baronet, 26th Chief of the Clan, purchased the ruin and restored it to a home and clan hub.

I feel for the current Laird, he opened it to the public to try to offset some of its upkeep. There is scaffolding over part of the castle, a 3 year plan to repoint the mortar in 2014 turning into a far bigger job as other problems are uncovered. They did start a restoration appeal in 2014 to help with costs. A guide we were talking to said it had taken him 25 years to pay off the smaller restoration job done in the 1970’s. Being a laird and owning a castle is a two sided sword.

The tour starts in the basement and dungeons, set out as they were 600 years ago, then moves up to the living quarters restored in 1911. This is their personal family history with family photos and family trees. There are hand written signs telling you what you are looking at and the history of the room. It feels so much more intimate for it.

We then move up a floor to a room with clan warrior history and then the rooftop which has amazing views over the strait. You can easy see why a castle here was a very strategic and profitable location.

We then walk around the outside. It is a sloping grass lawn on the landward side but a rock cliff on the other three. At the base of the cliff is a flattish area just above the sea. From a distance it looks like a very brutal square structure but up closer you see the landside corners are curved and there is some ornate touches. It has a lovely enclosed courtyard. There are some children’s plastic sand toys lined up beside a door on one side and I guess this is the family’s quarters. We have afternoon coffee and cake in the tea rooms and look through the gift shop.

I wonder if I should feel some ownership or connection to it all but I don’t, it’s too far removed and although MacLean blood runs through me so do other lines and even other Scottish clans.

Leaving the castle we turn left not right and carry on around to the outer side of Mull. We drive though vast, vast valleys without any sign of human occupation (other than the road of course). It’s bracken and peaty tussock, rocky mountains with water cascading off the sides. I know Mull is an island and not a particularly huge one but it feels like we’re in the middle of some gigantic land. Then unexpectedly the valley turns and there is the coast. The road here seems like someone just poured tarmac in the stone shore, it goes up and down, slopes left and right. Then equally unexpectedly we turn, up another vast valley. This one with signs of forestry, pine. Eventually we come out onto a dramatic coast. Steep mountains plummeting straight into the sea and the road is carved out no wider than it needs to be. We cross the base of another wide valley and find a place to pull off. There are other campers but we can all have our own 100 metres of privacy. This side of Mull gets Minke whales and Basking sharks passing at certain times of the year. Greg is hopeful that time is now. It’s not raining and there is some sunshine. The wind is blowing through but on a positive note that means no midges so we can have the door open.

OMG About 8pm 3 cars, 2 caravans and about 14 people turn up and park up as close as they possibly can to us. Both sides of our van despite there being space around the area. They have 3 dogs and 2 cats. Kids start running around screaming. The other camper on the opposite side of the area pack up and leave. Chatting to them, they are leaving specifically because of this group. They’d arrived after us and given us both space. Not sure if we should go or stay or just move over to where the other camper was. Are we judging people without foundation? We decide to stay put. Haha. 9.15 one of the men who’d gone off fishing comes roaring back. Next minute they all packing up and going. Gas tanks disconnected, dog cages dismantled, cats collected, caravans unanchored and hooked up. Kids riding in the Ute tray so figure they’re not going far. Must have found a better spot. We are not complaining at all. Peace and serenity as the sun sets over the loch.

14th August

We decide to take a morning walk up some rocky outcrops behind us. Haha easier said than done. This land, as in North Scotland, holds water. The ground underfoot is either rock or a soggy sponge with puddles, pools or lochs of all sizes. Plus fast running streams and cascades. Third route attempted and we make it up. There is a rock cairn making this as the site of the battle of Lighdlee, where the MacLean’s defeated the MacDonalds. A remote place but still with history. We can see the ‘caravan camp’ from last night and it has grown a bit. Glad they moved.

On our way back to the van via yet another route we are called over by some campers. They had driven their van onto the grass last night and it was now well settled in. Greg has some good ideas and together they manage to get back onto the road.

We then head north and do another back route that brings us into Tobermory from the North. This route takes us through the small settlement of Dervaig. Dervaig was built by Alexander MacLean in 1799 with gardens and crofting land. It is also where he would land his cattle from the nearby island of Coll and grains from the island of Tiree.

We come down into the picturesque town of Tobermory. Colourful painted buildings curve around the waterfront, now shops and eateries. There is a surprising number of people but we find a park and wandered around, before moving off down the coast to have lunch. We had passed a couple of rusting rotting boats pulled up on shore yesterday that Greg is dying to photograph.

The ferry back off Mull is half empty this time, just us, another van, 4 cars and a fully loaded logging truck. We drive off in order on the other side and are still in that order 39 minutes later. Hardly any cars coming the other way and the few that do pull off and get our procession go past uninterrupted. Definitely different to all of last week! We break ranks to top up on diesel. Then find a nice spot to stop for the night. There are a couple of English fishermen and they say it’s the first time someone else has joined them at this place. Greg had said to me ‘Are you sure this road goes somewhere?’ It’s that quiet and narrow. This isn’t a spot from the app but there were a couple marked on this road further on. We’re opposite Ben Nevis but the top is still shrouded in cloud.

Thursday 8th August.

After a lovely pub lunch and walk along the village, we then set course over the Bealach na Ba (pronounced Bell-lack nah bar) This is the highest pass in Scotland and larger campers are warned against going over it. Probably should be advising inexperienced drivers too. It’s a very narrow single lane road going steeply up and then down again with a few switchbacks. The road is narrow enough that we have to pull into ‘passing places’ even for cyclists. At the top there is a new mini with its bonnet up and steam pouring out and halfway down the other side a car passed us then promptly had to pull over with steam coming out. That one caused a bit of a jam because they were then occupying a passing place so other cars were having to reverse back to the previous one. Thankfully we were already past.

The views were spectacular but except for a parking area at the top, there wasn’t anywhere to stop and take photos. This photo is from the bottom looking back up. Unlike in Europe where they would have lots of switchbacks to reduce the steepness, here there were only two. I was using the go-pro to video but it doesn’t show the steepness.

We had been planning to do it tomorrow but the weather forecast was for heavy rain, low cloud and chance of flooding, not ideal for a super skinny steep road so we changed our plans. As a bonus the weather forecast is better the further south we get.

So we’re now parked at a little campground called The Wee Campground with a lovely view of the loch. Sun is even shining…… for now anyway.

9th August

It’s raining….. come on Scotland, give me a reason to love you and want to spend more time here!

We cross over to the Isle of Skye. There’s a lot of traffic! The landscape seems tamer than where we’ve been. The roads are two lanes for a start. It continues to rain. There are ‘Yellow Flood Warning’ signs on the side of the roads. The mountain tops are shrouded in cloud, the greens are muted but the waterfalls are raging.

Skye is pastoral with craggy mountains. White painted cottages scattered across the countryside. The flowering heather stands out more dramatically against the green grass. We drive the northern ring road, stopping to look across towards Applecross and the Bealach na Ba. Yesterday we were there looking this way.

We’re free camping on the waterfront in Portree. Quite a few other campers here. Going to grab a quick dinner then go up to a pub that has live sport (hopefully showing the Liverpool game) and live music. Not sure how those two go together but we’ll find out.

No live music but you couldn’t hear the commentary anyway. Good pub atmosphere, good result in the game and a nice Aussie Shiraz. May have enjoyed the wine a bit much as I certainly noticed it when we exited into the cold air. Just on that tipping point beyond tipsy. Two minutes walk and we’re back at the van.

10th August

It’s not raining, just cloudy. Long may it last.

Got the completed itinerary and quote for our African Adventure. Totally blowing the budget but it should be worth it.

Well the rain didn’t stay away for long but it’s not full on rain just annoying drizzly stuff. We walk around Portree, taking in the sights. Brightly painted houses on the harbours edge, fishing boats and nets.

We then drive the other ring road. The hills are a bit softer here. The strong wind is blowing up white caps on the steely coloured sea. No seabirds flying today.

We then head to Kyleankin, close to the bridge. Our spot for the night is on a wharf with a view of the bridge one way and a castle ruin the other. We go for a walk to the castle ruins, ends up being a bit of a clamber to avoid the water sodden valleys. There are spotlights so it should look good from our van later.

We then go to the local pub to use their wifi. Paid for our African Adventure (gulp!) and Greg’s trying to catch up with his photos. It’s seriously old school, there is a John Wayne movie on the TV and a few old guys propping up the bar, when they’re not playing snooker on the pool table taking up most of the room. There are only 2 tables with a total of 8 chairs which says something about the business. But the Scottish accents are so cool. There is a jukebox and the locals are selecting Frankie, ZZ Top and Talking Heads, could stay here for ages. Haha, probably will, this is seriously neat.

11th August

The wind rocked us like a cradle all night and it’s pouring down this morning. Bloody cold too. Both Greg and I have dug out our polyprops. I read online about this huge storm that has hit the country, mainly southern Scotland and northern England. This is not sightseeing weather so we huddle in the van writing for a couple of hours then cross the bridge off Skye and go to a supermarket – indoors!

From there we head to Loch Ness. A honesty box Aire for the night. The drive is pretty boring, actually it feels like New Zealand on the way to Rotorua. We’re out of the highlands now. It’s rolling hills, trees and pastoral farms. Lots of pine trees. At the back of the camp is a stream, running high with tea coloured water. We walk down to the local pub for a drink, wifi and warmth.

Purple flowered thistle, festooned with orange butterflies.

Rolling hillsides with crumbling stone walls sinking back into the soft peat.

Steep cliffs with swooping birds riding the winds, their young huddled on rock ledges.

Low stone cottages with yellow lichen running down the roof.

Rocky bays with seal heads bopping above the waves.

Roofless villages beside abandoned harbours, the herring boom has been and gone.

Wild, wind swept beaches with yellow sand and cold surf rolling in.

Bagpipes and snare drums, tipsy band members leaving the games, Jameson bottle in hand.

Woolly sheep wandering over the land, watching you as you pass. The fleece hanging off in clumps, no market for wool here. Fat tails wagging as the run away.

Small stone bridges arching over peat tainted streams.

Soft, spongy ground underfoot with tiny purple flowers, bracken and heathers clumped around boulders.

Purple, green and browns of peat bogs with pools of still water.

Cattle grids across the road with fences few and far in between.

Steep rocky crags, the west coast is dramatically different to the east.

Lochs of all shapes and sizes, different altitudes too. Deep still waters, dark coloured.

Numerous islands, both at sea and on Lochs. Mostly bare, occasionally with a small stone building on the waters edge.

A pub full of locals listening to live music, drinking and laughing. A tartan carpet underfoot.

Passing places to negotiate oncoming traffic. A narrow winding road promising new sights to see.

Waterfalls and waterfalls and waterfalls, mostly small. The ground is sodden underfoot.

Blue mountains, their peaks shrouded in cloud.

Glacial rocks, standing out from the crowd.

Clouds of Scottish Midges, waiting to bite you. People wearing netting headwear, every inch of flesh covered.

Peat bricks stacked on the roadside.

Deer watching us cautiously, and leaping away at a noise.

Wide, wild vistas across the hilltops, with so many Lochs in sight.

Red moss and blue lichen.

Red telephone boxes. Cellphone coverage not something to take for granted.

Scotland has old, old bones. I stand on a rock that is 1000 million years old. I peer at worm fossils from close to the South Pole.

Day by day notes:

4th August- drove along top of Scotland, pausing regularly and stayed in a campground beside a pub in Mervich. Wifi in bar. Young band playing music, fiddle, banjo, guitars, accordion, flutes. Mum singing along sometimes. Old Scottish folk songs.

5th August- Carrying on along the top. The landscape turns to peat, peaks, craggy bluffs and numerous lochs. The weather is wild and suits the terrain. Tomorrow we’ll turn south. Free camping on the banks of the Kyle of Durness.

Learned that Scotland was part of North America until the continental drift and it then crashed into England and Wales. I think they wish they could disconnect themselves again.

6th August – we head south, going around the first of two ‘caution, not for large RV roads’. Can see why and it’s not your own driving you have to think about but the other road users too. Going to have to make a call about the next optional road because it’s a really challenging one, spoken in hushed tones. Lunch at Clashnessie and the rain stopped just in time. Rain starts again so we move on. Free camping at Knockan Crag. If the rain would stop we’d go for a walk.

7th August- morning walk along the cliff top. Deer watching us and information about the tectonic upthrust meaning older rock is on top of younger rock. Coffee in Ullapool. Lots of photo stops. The terrain is always giving amazing and differing vistas. Stay the night in a carpark with a ‘tame’ wild 13 pointer stag. He’s old and has no teeth so a local comes up and feeds him soft food every evening.

8th August- morning hike, so remote. Drive the C road around the coast to Applecross. Lunch in the pub with wifi.

Saturday 3rd August

8.45am saw us pulling out of the small harbour at John O’Groats, destination Orkney Islands or more precisely Burwick on the island of South Ronaldsay. It’s a 40 minute crossing and today is calm seas apparently. As we pass two areas close to each landmass it is very noticeable the height differences between the North Sea and the Atlantic. The water is roaring across with standing waves and huge eddies around. The boat leans way over to one side, feels like a yacht under sail.

But we do make it safely over and disembark then get on a bus. It’s a busy day for them, about 6 large buses are waiting and several smaller ones. On the ferry I’d been chatting to a French guide, she had a group of 14 and was planning her route to avoid the Globus tour of Americans, whom they’d been playing tag with the previous day.

Our bus is full, mostly Europeans. Quite a few families. Our driver and guide tells us he’s lived here for 5 years. After visiting for the first time, he bought a place and moved up the following week.

The first historical feature we encounter is the Churchill Barriers. The Orkneys are made up of 70 different islands and sheltered by a few of them is the worlds biggest harbour. This was used extensively in both wars. For defence of the harbour in WW1 they scuttled several old boats between the bottom 4 islands to stop the enemy coming in behind them but in WW2 the Germans managed to send a submarine through where it torpedoed and sank HMS Royal Oak. Luckily for the British most of their fleet was out on manoeuvres at the time. Anyhow Churchill decided to solve the issue by creating the barriers to link the 4 islands together. For manpower he used Italian POW’s captured in the Middle East. This leads nicely onto the second place we visited.

The Italian Chapel. The Italians were in two camps, one called camp 66. They were Catholics and wanted somewhere to worship. Luckily for them a new commandant was also Catholic and agreed to them converting two of the Nissen huts to a Chapel. One of the prisoners, Domenico Chiocchetti painted above the alter, an image based on a small prayer card his mother had given him. The commandant was so impressed he then allowed him to paint the rest of the building. It is all hand painted to look like it is vaulted with stone. After that they were allowed to make the outside look like a church not a half round corrugated hut. Aside from the incredible painting , the light fittings were made from corned beef tins and the baptismal font from a car exhaust. The prisoners were repatriated before it was finished but Chiocchetti remained on the island to finish it.

We also visited the sizeable town of Kirkwall and the smaller town of Stromness. Arriving at Kirkwall, we see two large cruise ships. Apparently they get about 170 every year. The coach drivers must all coordinate well because only at one site we visited was there more than one other bus.

The Orkney’s consist of 70 islands, 20 which are inhabited. It is mostly rural, beef farms and some sheep. They have 4 dairy herds which supply them with milk and their own ice cream. There are two whiskey distilleries, two gin distilleries and one rum distillery. There are virtually no trees, it’s too windy. Their wind turbines provide 150% of their needs so they sell electricity to the mainland. They have an oil terminal on one of the smaller islands which returns a healthy profit to the economy. It has zero unemployment and was just named ‘Best place to live in the UK.’. The only downside, in my mind anyway, is the average winter temperature is 5 degrees and the average summer is 15 degrees. The water is a fairly consistent 8 degrees. This far north they only have 5 to 6 hours of daylight in winter and the reverse mid summer. The islands had strong commercial links with the Hudson Bay company since Canada is relatively close. Actually Norway is closer than London. Back in earlier times, because of French and Spanish pirates working the channel, lots of ships would go up and around via these islands so it was an important trading link.

It currently has a population of 23000 and it had a large population 5000 years ago too. They say it’s been occupied for at least 8500 years. The place names all go back to its Viking period, it was part of Denmark from 875 to 1472 at which time Scotland annexed it for a failed dowry payment. A lot of the old stone houses have the Viking long house style to them. I also notice a lot of repurposed Nissen huts so figure when they disbanded the POW camps the materials didn’t go far.

We visited a couple of henges (stone circles) and the Neolithic site of Skara Brae. It was possibly a village, houses connected together with a covered pathway. The houses all had indoor running water. This site isn’t being actively worked, just preserved. There are 7 other active sites on the island, one we drive slowly by where they are excavating a community hall and what seems to be ‘governing’ buildings suggesting a fairly complex society. The buildings are decorated and there are ornate pots and ornaments suggesting that all their basic needs were assured. They have found objects that show they were also trading or visiting other lands. Challenges for the archaeologists is the erosion and the fact that newer places are built on top of the old ones as in at Skara Brae where they know there are older buildings below the ones we see. But the ones we see were built 5000 years ago and you don’t want to destroy them to get lower. The Neolithic dig we went to in Turkey was the same. On the upper part of that site they’d stopped at 3500 years old but the lower section they were down to 10000 years.

On our way back to the ferry we had a second stop in Kirkwall and we witnessed a local tradition, their version of a stag party. The groom was in the back of a small truck with several friends and they were banging on the sides with pieces of wood, shouting and blowing whistles. It is then regularly stopped by friends and family who ‘blacken’ the groom with a mixture of treacle, flour and feathers. Apparently this parade will last for several hours and generally ends up in the sea. We only saw the groom but traditionally the bride is done as well in a separate truck.

A smooth evening crossing back to John O’Groats and another night at the lighthouse.

Just after I posted my last blog the sea mist appeared on the horizon. This time it brings a cold strong wind. It rolls over the top of us breaking up with landfall. The temperature dropped noticeably but it quickly dissipates and the air warms back up. The setting sun bathing in deep purple clouds all that remain.

Wednesday 31st July.

We carry on around the coast to Fort George. We’ve seen this place on the TV Show Coast, now we’re seeing it in person.

In 1746 after the Battle of Culloden, incidentally the last battle on British soil, the government were determined there wouldn’t be another uprising so they commissioned the building of this fort. It’s never seen action but has and still is used by the military. Since 2007 the Black Watch has been based here. It’s odd to be walking around a historic fortress and see modern soldiers. You can hear the constant sound of arms at the nearby shooting range. A group assemble in lines outside some barracks. There are a couple of young men running circuits on the bastion walls.

The fort is huge, covering 42 acres. It’s construction was done by the Adams brothers. William Adams is better known for his grand residential properties. Even I’ve heard of Adams fireplaces. He also designed Edinburgh’s new town. Building this fort gave him the funds to do a ‘Grand tour’ and get inspiration for his future creations.

We spend a couple of hours wandering around. A lot of it is only viewable from the outside because it is still barracks and officer quarters. But all around, there are areas set up as it was in the 1800’s. It’s a really interesting place. As you approach from the carpark it is so grounded that until you cross the bridge you have no idea of the size. There are 4 storey buildings that are completely hidden from view.

As a bonus it’s a Heritage Scotland site so we get 50% off the entry fee because of our English Heritage membership. We have now 3/4 paid off the joining fee without even trying.

We skirt around Inverness, peak hour traffic so not keen to explore the city. We’re now parked up directly opposite the Fort at Fortrose. We were told about this place our first day in the UK. As the tide turns Dolphins are regularly seen off just off the beach herding fish into the shallows. Low tide is 6.30 pm so we will have an early dinner. Hahaha I better stop typing and start cooking.

So after dinner we walk down the hill, past the golf club to the point. There are a lot of people there! Not a bad thing as the ‘ooh! Look there’ is the first indication that the dolphins are in sight. Two come closer and closer and move around the headland. Lots of people follow them along the shore but the gasp from some people to my left has me moving the other way. There is another two coming and they are leaping out of the water constantly. They come really close to shore, leaping and circling around. They also continue around the headland following the fish up the Moray Firth. They are Bottlenose Dolphins so are quite large. It’s a very special sight and we will definitely be back down here 7.30 tomorrow morning to catch the next low tide.

1st August 2019

No messing around this morning and 8am sees us back on the waters edge. The dolphins take longer to arrive today and when they do they aren’t leaping and frolicking like they were last night However they do stay in place, just a couple of metres offshore, for well over an hour. They are catching lots of fish. Big black and white fish I don’t recognise, not that I know much about fish. They play with their food, catching it , spitting it out, catching it again, throwing it in the air and chasing it again. Greg flattens a battery taking photos but he’s complaining that they are unpredictable when they will surface.

Back at the van and we have a phone conversation with our daughter. Her car failed it’s WOF and she wants to borrow ours. Not a problem but it’s not the best car for her so the family is going to play musical cars. Love it that everyone is willing to help each other.

Google maps tells us we’re less than 3 hours from John O’Groats but we’re not going to rush it so will only go halfway today. Explore the route better.

We pass a sign advising us to watch out for otters crossing. That’s a change from the regular deer signs. We stop for lunch by a protected wetlands. It was formed as part of a failed attempt to create more farmland by the two neighbouring landowners. They dammed the river expecting it to silt up completely but only half of it did. It also eliminated the last remaining ferry between Inverness and John O’Groats. A noticeboard lists all the wildlife around and it includes Wild Cats. That would be a cool sight but I’m not holding my breath. We go for a walk and don’t see any animals, not even birds. We do pick some wild raspberries though. Eaten them all before we get back to the van.

Our site for the night is Helmsdale Harbour. We’re parked on the seawall so there are fishing boats berthed behind us and birds on a breakwater in front of us. There are 3 large campers here before us and over the evening more arrive until there are 11 in total. Those we speak to are heading in the same direction so we will likely bump into them again.

2nd August

Whacked my head on the corner of a cupboard this morning. Ouch! Really hurt. I can’t believe I did that. Greg does semi regularly but I don’t. Going to jinx it now. But it is surprisingly in such a small space it doesn’t happen more often.

Moving on up the coast google tells us there is a cafe at Lybster Harbour. We walk in and there is lots of homebaking on the counter. Greg starts having second thoughts when he sees the coffee machine but the lady’s asking us what we’d like so we’re committed now. Greg asks if she can do a flat white and she says of course, no problem so we order an espresso and a flat white. She says take a seat and I’ll bring them out. As we’re turning away I see her spooning instant coffee in two mugs, maybe it’s not for us. Haha. We sit down and she puts the two mugs in front of us along with a little jug of cold milk. She says ‘that one’s the espresso and that’s the flat white’. Glad she told us because I couldn’t have picked the difference. In quick succession 5 other cars turn up, obviously a popular place. We start chatting to the couple at the next table. They’re locals. We’re told it used to be a very busy fishing harbour. Herrings. But the fish have all gone, over fished and now the sea is closed. Tourism is the only economy now. They recommend a day trip that runs out to the Orkney Islands and tell us Prince Charles is opening Highland Games tomorrow in John O’Groats. Damn,hope that doesn’t effect us getting parking for the night.

We drive on and go to a small site called Hill o’ Many Stanes. There are 192 flagstone slabs in fan shape of 22 rows, dated 3000 to 4000 years old. Each stone was set in clay or turf lined sockets and packed with stones. There are a few sites like this across Europe but this one is the largest. Archaeologists believe successive generations have added to each line, maybe to commemorate ancestors. I wonder what this place was like back then and why it was chosen. Nowadays it’s surrounded by farmland and is a small hill about halfway between the sea and the mountains.

We drive on to John O’Groats and visit the tourist information centre, then the ferry office where we book a day trip to Orkney Islands for tomorrow. The ferry leaves at 8.45 and gets back at 1940 so it’s a long day but we go to all the highlights including Skara Brae. I watched a program on tv about the Neolithic sites years ago. Skara Brae is a stone age village, 5000 years old and is a world heritage site.

Next stop is the lighthouse at Duncansby point. This is where we’ll stay the night. We get a park but hopefully later on can move to a slightly flatter one. For now it will do and we can explore the coast a bit. Greg wants to go for a swim, even is it’s a very brief one. Actually it was a reasonable one, he was surprised it wasn’t as cold in as he was expecting. Added to that the sun came out and the clouds and the wind went away. In other words it turned into a very nice afternoon.

We manage to move the van up to a flatter spot and go for a walk along the cliff tops. It feels a bit like New Zealand as in there are sheep but with tails and it’s grassy. There are deep steep inlets that makes me think of smugglers coves, with them hoisting the contraband up the cliffs. For now it’s the home for lots of Fulmars with chicks huddled on cliff ledges. A bit further along the inlets have eroded to create stacks on the beach. One is still connected to the mainland by a land bridge, not that anyone would be game to cross it.

Back at the van and we put the chairs out for pre dinner drinks in the sun and surrounded by sheep. The view is amazing, sea, islands, soaring birds. It’s very serene.

3rd August

Wow it’s been five months since we got on a plane in Auckland. Seems like ages ago, we’ve been to so many places since then. Somewhat appropriate that today we will go to the northern most point of our travels, the Orkney Islands.

So it’s an early start and naturally this morning is the morning the gas bottle runs out so there is no hot water and it’s chilly outside. Greg curses and swears as he swaps the bottles over, the cold making the unscrewing and rescrewing hard. Then there’s no time to wait for the hot water cylinder to reheat so it’s boiling jugs on the stove to wash. But the sea looks calm and the clouds look like they will break up again today so I’m sure it’s going to be a great day.

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Oh my god, Orkney is amazing and deserves its own blog so this ends this one.

Saturday 27th July

We wake up to heavy rain. It’s cold, like seriously cold. I’m digging out the winter layers again. It’s predicted to lift slightly this afternoon but it’s not really going to clear for a few days.

We drive to Edinburgh and park by the base of Arthur’s Seat. I think it’s really neat for this city to have these craggy, mist shrouded hills right in its heart. Today we just walk past it, huddled under our umbrellas, concentrating on avoiding the waves coming off the cars. Seven years ago we arrived in Edinburgh in the dark. It was cold and wet then too. Left early the next morning as we had a long drive. We promised ourselves we’d come back. I can’t believe it’s cold and wet again!

A few minutes walk brings us to the bottom of the Royal Mile. It’s very tonal, stone buildings lining a stone road. Personality expressed in the turrets and bay windows. The only colour is the many taxis in bright colours and the hop on hop off buses. Plus the kilts displayed for sale in every shop. The closer we get to the top the more crowded it gets. Hundreds of people in rain ponchos bearing the Scottish flag and carrying tartan umbrellas.

We go straight to the castle and join the queue to get in. The rain eases so we can put our umbrellas away. It’s still misty and damp. There are so many people, we haven’t had these sorts of crowds since Paris. The castle surprised us both, we were expecting just a castle. Obviously neither of us had done any research. Once through the gates it’s more like a walled town with lots of buildings leading the way up the hill. There are things to view in most of them, dealing with war and the Scottish troops.

I was interested in a display on conscientious objectors. Never seen that anywhere else. It wasn’t judgemental at all and went through the personal tales of people who avoided all involvement and those who chose to help in support capacities to those who were forced to fight or who changed their minds and felt they had too. I totally connected with the internal conflict. How is it right to fight brutality with more brutality yet how can you let that brutality continue without check when all peaceful negotiation fails.

There are the expected displays of swords and arms, uniforms and medals. There is the progression of the Scottish Greys from horseback to tanks. The grand hall with vaulted ceiling.

The queue for the Crown Jewels is at the 1 hour mark so we skip it. Instead we spent time in the recreated prisons from the Napoleon war. Eventually we head back down out of the castle for a very belated lunch. 4pm again!

Afterwards we decide to do a ‘free’ walking tour. The historical ones are only in the morning so we have a choice of ghost or Harry Potter. We chose ghost and it was very interesting. You are getting history but with a twist. The wall built around the city with a toll to enter meant no one left so the plague ran riot, leading to witch-hunts. The Park which used to be a lake was used as the city’s septic tank and used to trial the witches. The poltergeist of Black McKenzie, who created the first ever concentration camp. And other stories.

We then backtracked to some of the places he’d taken us and explored more. The cemetery where we read the plaques and down Victoria Street with its brightly coloured businesses on the lower street level with the footpath going over the rooftops giving access to a second tier of businesses, all unpainted. At the bottom of the street lots of young people are gathering so I’m assuming it’s the party side of town or toon as they say around here.

Finally with night falling we head back to our van. We’ll assess the weather in the morning as to whether or not we’ll climb Arthur’s Seat.

28th July

It’s not raining in the morning so we decide to climb to Arthur’s Seat. We detour to St Anthony’s Chapel, on a side hill to look around and take in the view.

We then carry on up the main track. It starts to rain. Heavy wet drops. The cloud wraps itself around us turning all the other people on the track into blurry shadows. We reach a crest but cannot see anything beyond a few feet. We’re both soaked through so it’s a very easy decision to turn back here.

We go to the supermarket instead and potter through some shops. It’s still raining. Eventually we decide we’ve had enough and we head north crossing the new bridge over the Forth. The GPS doesn’t recognise it as it is constantly re-calculating as the red arrow moves over blue.

We take the Fife Coastal Tourist Route and if the weather was clear we’d be looking back at Edinburgh. The rain has finally stopped but it is still overcast. We stop at three little fishing villages. Lunch at the first, just photos at the second and we’ll stay the night at the third. Good choice. There is a community pub so naturally we have a drink with the locals. It only runs Thursday to Sunday with all the profits going back to community projects. But more than that, it’s a place for the locals to get together and at £2 a pint it is popular.

29th July

We explore the area, first walking one way along the Fife coastal path to a bay where Greg spent about 30 minutes trying to photograph the seals frolicking off the rocks. The bay is backed by an old brick wall, arches along the top with rusting iron grills. Peering through there is a lovely garden and a crumbling tower. Maybe it was a church because there are crosses in the grass behind. We then walk the other way. The tide is coming in. There are large groups of black birds sitting on the sea. Too far out to distinguish type, not that I know birds at all. There are 2 container ships anchored, presumably waiting for something. It’s very peaceful. There is a church with a graveyard. Old weathered headstones sinking into the land, some leaning precariously. The vibrant green grass contrasting with the greyed marble.

We then drive along the coast to Leven and find a cafe with wifi. Update some things and analyse the financial accounts which have come through from the accountant. He wants me to sign and return. Haha. He’ll have to accept a photographed piece of paper with a date and explanation for now.

One of the biggest differences I’m noticing between here and Europe is that in Europe everyone does their own thing and no one talks to you. Here they’re standing in the carparks waiting to ask you questions. And it’s not because of the common language because so many assume we’re German. They want to know all about where you’re going and why you’ve come to their small town. By the way it’s a town if it has a town hall. Then they give you advice on where to go and what to see. It’s quite neat, especially since we’re traveling on our own.

We carry on around the coast stopping at another small fishing marina for lunch. We drive through St Andrews and past the famous golf course then past several others. I can’t help wondering if St Michaels golf course is jealous of all the attention St Andrews gets. And Wormit probably just wants a different name.

We cross the Tay via the Tay bridge and skirt around Dundee. Then we’re on the Angus Coastal Tourist Route. We park up for the night on the edge of the sea with several other campers at Arbroath. The tides out but before it turns the sea mist rolls in blanketing us all in grey. After 4 days in Scotland if I had to pick a colour to describe this country, it would be grey. Hopefully that will change soon. Please!

It hasn’t lifted when we go for our evening walk. We count 17 campers as we pass them. The mist is thick enough that from our van we can only see 4. We wander around the marina. Actually Greg tells me I should be calling them harbours. A marina suggests pleasure boats but what we are seeing are working fishing harbours. This harbour dates from the 14th Century. The town itself is dated from 1178 when the Abbey was founded, thought the site has been occupied since 3500bc. Amazing! Its claims to fame are the invention of the postage stamp, the invention of smokies ( smoked haddock apparently) and the record for the biggest win in professional football. 36-0 over Aberdeen in 1885.

Anyhow our walk is very moody. Sounds taking on an eerie element, the cry of the gulls haunting without sight. Footsteps heard long before anyone comes into view. The water in the harbour eerily still but the sound of waves against the seawall providing conflicting messages. It’s great! Love it.

30th July

Sunshine! Blue sky! Wow. We continue our meandering up the Angus Coastal Tourist Route. We’re close to the coast just fields of yellowing grains between us and the deep blue sea. Yes, blue not grey. We drive through small towns, cross over arched bridges and ignore motorway on ramps.

Just past Aberdeen we see a sign for Trump golf course so we do a slight detour. The gates are set in manicured lawns with about 50 spotlights and security cameras. We park on the grass and take a quick photo. As we leave a helicopter flys over, presumably transporting a wealthy golfer to the course.

We continue up the coast, pausing to have lunch beside the river Ythan. As we round a headland by Cruden Bay we notice castle ruins on another headland. When we get close there is a gravel track. A quick check of google maps shows it goes to the ruins and there is room to turn around out there so naturally out we go. There is no one there but seagulls. It’s amazing. We climb the stone spiral staircase up four stories past rooms without floors. The wind is howling in through the window openings off the sea. The top stair ends in nothing and looking up there are daisies framing the sky, growing on top the stone walls.

As we come back down again all these people turn up, some on bikes, some in cars and some on foot. None of them seem to know each other but it’s quite odd that they all arrive at the same time. We ask a couple of young lads about the ruins and their reply is something to do with Dracula. Google tells us that Bram Stoker (Charles McKean) lived in a cottage just down the hill while he was writing and was quite likely to have been invited up by the William Hay, the 19th Earl of Errol. The castle itself was built in the 15/1600’s and altered extensively in the 1800’s. The tower we climbed was from the original part.

Eventually we get to our campground for the night. It’s in Fraserburgh beside a beach. Greg goes for a swim. Not for long as the water is cold. Tomorrow we’ll reach Inverness and the start of the North Coast 500.

The North Coast 500 is a 516 mile scenic route around the north coast of Scotland. It was launched by Prince Charles in 2015, linking places to visit with interesting driving roads. There is one called the Bealach na Ba which they advise motorhomes to bypass via a different road. The website lists whiskey distilleries, castles, museums, hotels, b&b’s, campsites Not sure if it’s going to be a good choice or not because apparently it’s very popular. It is pretty much what we’d been planning to do anyway, as in up to John O’Groats and down the other side. We’ll just see how things go.

24 July 2019. It occurred to me that maybe I should be dating my entries for future reference. I’ll go back through all the older blogs at some stage. Anyhow today is Wednesday the 24th and we’ve been in the UK for 2 weeks. Wow, doesn’t feel that long.

Today has felt like a long day because we’ve done quite different things. We woke on the moors after a wild night. Twice I was woken by thunderstorms crossing over us. The first one was quite short and the wind was going straight over the top of us because we were sheltered by a rocky rise. The second was longer and a slightly different angle so the wind was catching the top of the van. Even woke Greg. The lightning was so bright but you could hardly hear the thunder over the wind and rain. It all passed by daybreak leaving the valley full of whispery cloud. By the time we’d finished breakfast, it had all gone leaving blue sky and the promise of a lovely day.

We headed down to Whitby and the Abbey ruins.

Built on the headland between the 12th and 14th centuries by the Benedictine monks on the site of an older 7th century monastery, it wasn’t long completed when Henry the 8th confiscated all the Catholic properties and it fell into ruin. It’s an English Heritage site so you pay a pretty penny just to walk around it, and expensive parking on top. Live and learn, next time we’ll park down the road and walk. We did ‘cheekily’ use the leftover time when we moved down to the town and another pay and display carpark when we realised the tickets were identical. We then wandered around the town, which was packed with people and cars, and had coffee and scones in a port side cafe.

We then planned to drive to Whitby beach for lunch and a swim but one look at the packed beach and queues for parking put us off so we moved up the coast a bit to Sandsend. 10 minutes drive but a much quieter beach. We parked beside another camper and chatted to the lady. This is their regular holiday spot. They live in the Peak District which isn’t far away. We walk down to the beach and swim and laze on the sand. Have lunch and laze some more. It’s about 30 degrees but the water is still very cold. It is crystal clear though.

Eventually we move on up the coast, driving through some run down suburbs. Boarded up shops, unkempt terrace housing, young people with bare midriffs, tats and pushchairs. We pull into the place I’d picked for the night and there is another camper packing up. Talking to him, he advised moving on to another spot 20 minutes drive away. He’d stayed last night and said there were lots of youths coming and going with drugs all night. We follow his recommendation and are now parked at Noses Point, with an amazing view out to sea. Ships gliding past northward bound and sandy beaches below us.

After dinner Greg wants to walk to a Seawall opposite a lighthouse. We start off down a concrete footpath then on to a grass trail. It winds down and around a high metal fence. Ok, then it goes through a gap in the fence. Hmmm. Carries on between a concrete wall and large rocks on the waters edge until we reach 2 large locked gates. The first has a huge hole in it but the second is intact with spikes sticking out sideways over the edge. Greg’s keen to climb up the concrete wall and get over. I’m not sure. Just then we hear voices and 3 likely lads come up behind us. Ones like ‘that’s new!’ A bit of discussion and they decide to climb the wall so we tag along too. Always better to trespass with locals. Greg takes the photos he wanted. He’s somewhat keen to stay until the light comes on, 1/2 hour after sunset. I’m not keen and point out it’s about 30 minutes walk back along a iffy route and probably not a good idea to do it in the dark. As it is, it’s dark by the time we get back. A good adventure though and Greg had some fun banter with the Geordie Boys.

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25th July.

The sun lifted itself out of the sea. A huge orange ball clad only in two wisps of deep purple cloud. Long lines of light leading towards the shore. It’s 5 in the morning so I roll over and go back to sleep.

The sun is well up by the time we go for a walk along the beach to the south. Over the last 20 years they have been cleaning up the coast. Before that the coal mines were pouring all their waste over the edge of the cliffs. There is still a lot of work to do but you could clearly see what a difference they had made. From the beach we were entertained by dolphins jumping out of the water along with a seal and even fish leaping, presumably to escape the dolphins.

Chatted to a local who was bemoaning Brixit and the new PM. He said lots around here voted for leaving because they worked for a Nissan assembly plant. He said the joke is that there is a meeting happening today about closing the plant anyway. 10,000 jobs on the line.

Coffee in a Costa so we can use wifi for Greg to update his page. I’ll hold off on this for another day. We’re going to meander up the coast aiming to get to Edinburgh on Saturday morning – free parking on weekends.

We drive the coastal road. Hmmm. It may be the road closest to the sea but it’s not really ‘coastal’. It is a nice drive through, skinny little B roads winding through farmland, small settlements with occasional glimpses of the sea. A couple of times we pass through seaside places but there is nowhere to stop and they are packed with people. We drive around the base of Bamburgh castle. It’s huge and we are very tempted to stop. Well we would have if we could have got parking. We park further up the road and have lunch with a beach visible over a grassy field. The tide is way out which makes us feel better.

Seven years ago when we were driving from Edinburgh to York we stumbled upon the Holy Island of Lindisfarne. It’s accessible by a causeway at low tide. Back then we crossed but immediately turned back as the tide was lapping at the edge and we didn’t have a lot of spare time. Last year we watch the series The Vikings and that’s the monastery that Ragnar Lothbrok raids and meets Athelstan. The story may be fictionised but the facts are true. Greg is keen to go back and actually explore the island. This time we cross with plenty of time on the tides.

We park and decide to go to the priory. Like the Abbey yesterday it is an English Heritage site. Just like yesterday they try to upsell overseas visitor pass. And I tell them exactly the same thing, we’re here for 3 months and on our way to Scotland now. Yesterday they advised we buy a 9 day or 16 day pass when we get back to England. Cost of £60 or £70 for 2 adults. Today we were told we could get an year long membership for £105 and they would refund the cost of entry from yesterday as well. So if we visit 5 or 6 sites at an average cost of £18 to €20 we’ve covered our costs. We’ve now done 2 already and I definitely want to do Hadrians Wall and Dover Castle and Beeston Castle. I’m happy I don’t have to pick only one or two. AND we get 50% of Scotland Heritage site like Edinburgh Castle, also on my list. Then looking through the pack we get free parking on sites too. Plus a book with information about all the places we can see.

The priory is less than the Abbey yesterday but the information centre was great. I learned a lot more about how the monks lived their lives than walking around the site, it’s like – this is where they made the beer, this is where they made cheese, this is the stairs to the dormitories. It’s interesting.

We cross off the island with the tide coming in but still a fair distance from the causeway. Then we cross into Scotland.

The guy yesterday had told us about a cool place to free camp in Eyemouth so we head there. Drive up to the headland and there are signs saying ‘No Camping’. I say let’s check out over the other side where I can see a couple of campers. There are huge signs there saying ‘ by the authority…. no sleeping in vehicles bla bla bla but saying to park down the hill by the marina so we go down there. A German guy says, yes you can stay here but it costs £16 and you’ll be woken all the time by the fishing trawlers. He says, go back to the first place but go down the track a bit. He says there are alway people camping there. So we go back and are soon joined by a Dutch couple sent there by the camping ground on the next headland. Haha. We are parked right beside the the sea, just a short bank and a rocky outcrop. There are cars parked up in the higher part with binoculars trained on the horizon. Asked what they looking at/for, we’re told bottlenose dolphins, seals and Orcas. So now we’re keeping our eyes peeled too.

By the time we’ve finished dinner another van has parked up too. This time with English plates. Our after dinner entertainment is an amazing storm. Huge bolts of forked lightning, rolling thunder and a very brief burst of fat rain. The clouds boil but the wind turns warm. It passes quickly, moving out to sea.

Greg invites the Dutch couple over for drinks. Tea this time but it’s still after 11 before we part ways. Nice conversation. There are places we’ve been that they haven’t and visa-versa. They cycled through Iceland a few years ago, Greg quite jealous. They came over today by ferry from Haarlem to Newcastle and are planning on driving the North Coast 500. We’d only heard about this a couple of days ago. It is a circular route around the north of Scotland driving along some amazing back roads and takes a week or so. Greg’s been researching it for us to do so we may see them again on the road.

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Friday 26th July

Another spectacular thunderstorm lulled us off to sleep but we awoke to a calm morning. After breakfast we walked down to Eyemouth Marina where the fishing boats we’d watched going out last night where coming back in and sorting their catch. Lots of seagulls hanging around calling for attention and a few grey seals looking for an easy breakfast.

We wander around to the beach and through the Main Street. It’s a very quaint fishing village. Locals chatting on the street, small shops selling essentials. We went to a very nice cafe surprisingly with half the menu vegan or vegetarian. Great coffee.

All around the town are large boards with photos of every ‘Eyemouth Herring Queen’ celebrating 75 years of the pageant. There is bunting and decorations on houses of previous winners. It is obviously quite a community thing. A notice board tells us it is part of a week long celebration. We buy a crusty loaf of fresh bread for lunch and head back to the van.

We drive a few minutes up the coast to a surf beach. It’s an outgoing tide so the surf isn’t particularly high. There is a surf school lesson going on to one side. Greg goes body surfing and gets some good rides. He comes in ten minutes later, his feet starting to turn blue with the cold.

We then drive inland to a proper campground. Do the laundry and refill the tanks, use the wifi. Tomorrow we’ll reach Edinburgh.

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York. We visited York 7 years ago. One night, late November. It was dusk when we arrived. Our accommodation was so small you had to have the shower door open to be able to sit on the loo and the bathroom door open to get out of bed. We did a ghost walk, which was great and visited the Viking centre in the morning before hightailing to Liverpool and a Europa Cup game against Young Boys, a Swiss club which was a 3 all draw. Wow, that all came flooding back!

Sunday 21st July

This time we arrive before lunch and the sun is trying to break through the clouds. It’s much warmer. Ironically we still have to have the shower curtain open to sit on the loo and the bathroom door open to get out of bed but we have a lot more room to move around than that hotel room back then. We’re parked up beside the racecourse. It’s free to park here except on race days. The other side of the road is a neighbourhood park. There are lots of trees and it’s very green.

It’s a 15 minute walk to the city gates. We start walking under, then decide to do the wall walk instead. It’s a great way to get your bearings and look down on the city. Halfway round we cross the river so leave the wall and wander into the city. Up and down the cute but crowded lanes. The Shambles is packed. There are a few ‘Harry Potter’ style shops, deliberately not mentioning him by name, but selling stuff like Diagon Alley would sell. Such as books, potions etc. It is actually very realistic but does detract from the real heritage that is the medieval Shambles.

We go to an old pub for lunch. Not a single straight wall, floor or ceiling in the place. Pity the food was average.

We explore more, poking through the various markets then make our way to the Minster. It was closed to the paying public but the Choral Evensong had just started. Greg walks up and says ‘We’re here for the service.’ They’re like yes of course, just go in and you will be seated. Probably not quite what Greg was expecting but it was really good. The choir singing adds so much to the atmosphere. Anglican services are quite different to Catholic. It’s more joyful and more inclusive. The sermon tells us that all will be welcome in heaven.

The Anglican Church doesn’t have a central hierarchy which is why you get differing opinions on gays etc from one church to another. It’s human nature to have different ideas and opinions. Tolerance and understanding of differences is what’s makes us better people. Haha. Sermon over. I still feel churches and all faiths abuse the power they have over people to their own gains. Just some more than others.

We manage another stop in a very very old pub (1644) on our way home for a drink. I have a gin. The choice is amazing. I think I’m going to have to put in a bit of research into this. I tried a rhubarb flavoured one out of London. Wasn’t particularly rhubarby so next time I’ll try a different one.

Going back along the city wall, we pass by a father reading facts and figures from his phone. He states this wall is older than the Great Wall of China. Amazing!

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Monday 22nd July

Yesterday, while walking around we’d passed a camera shop and as normal Greg drags me over to look. He’s been talking for a while about getting a 100-400 lens but they’re about 3k in NZ. Lately it’s been ‘if we’re going on Safari I will definitely need one’. Anyhow there is a used one in the window This is unusual as it’s not an old lens. The shop was shut so we go back today. Greg has spent some time overnight getting info on what to look at specifically so we are prepared. It turned out the lens is only 2 years old but was too heavy for the older woman owner. There was another gentleman in the shop playing around with a different Fuji lens so they ended up having some good discussions about it. We haggle the price down a bit and get a filter thrown in, then walk out with a heavy bag and lighter wallet. Saved nearly NZ$1000 ( or will do once we get the VAT refund) so can’t complain.

We walked to where we’d come off the city wall yesterday, had a lovely cup of coffee in a cafe called the Perky Peacock and then walked the rest of the walls back to the gate close to our van. York is lovely. Last time it was moody, dark, atmospheric, you totally could believe in the ghosts. This time it’s light and friendly. I’ve really enjoyed both our visits here.

We depart York and drive up to Castle Howard. There is a small campground on the Estate. Comes with a discount ticket to visit the castle and gardens which we will use tomorrow morning. For now it’s laundry and relaxing time.

Our after dinner walk is along the edge of the lake looking over at the castle reflected in the still waters and watching the swans.

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Tuesday 23rd July

Morning comes and we move around to the main carpark. It’s quite pricy so I’m glad to have 50% off. The walled gardens are lovely, mostly flowers but one is totally vegetables. There is a farm shop at the main entrance. The veges are pretty expensive but we do buy some lovely fresh bread.

The house itself is interesting. It suffered a huge fire in 1940, losing its crowning glory, a grand dome in the centre of the building and suffering damage to most of the main rooms. They quickly put a temporary roof on but to this day some rooms haven’t been relined. It was used for the TV series Brideshead Revisited and they built stage sets in the empty rooms to fit the story. These remain and are part of the tour. So the place is an interesting mix of genuine old spaces, fantasy spaces and empty spaces. Nevertheless it is a very grand building and as it’s been in the same family since the day it was built, it’s impressive. The son who took it on after the war when it was fire damaged, neglected and the farm run down, took on a pretty big challenge to turn it around and make it earn its keep.

There are objects brought back from ‘Grand Tours’ taken to Europe, Roman statues and mosaics made into table tops. Lots of old furniture and paintings. Original frescos done by Pellegrini, one which has been restored, the rest blackened with age and fire damage. The original wallpaper had been all done by the same person, William Morris, and although it had all gone over the years there were spare rolls in storage meaning they could duplicate it. It’s all rather grand. I’m assuming the family wing is more homely.

We finish our visit with coffee in the boathouse, looking back across the lake towards where we’d stayed the night. Discretely tucked behind the trees.

Then we drive to Scarborough…..parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme. We park up on North Beach. £2 an hour! Expensive! We have lunch and Greg goes for a swim. The water is cold, he doesn’t stay in for long. There are kids splashing at the edge. Along a bit three older ladies in black one pieces start walking in, one turns around at knee depth. The other two get mid thigh before stopping. Standing there, hesitant to go deeper but reluctant to back out.

The area here is wonderful, lines of Victorian Terrace house high on the cliffs overlook the beach with its promenade. There are colourful beach huts at the north end and a prominent castle ruin on the southern headland. We then drive around the headland to the South beach and are assailed with neon lights, casinos and arcades. Such a contrast. This beach is crowded so it obviously appeals to the majority here.

Moving on to another song, we head to the ‘Wiley, windy moors’, well, the Yorkshire Moors anyway. Wow, it’s like the desert road on steroids. And without the mountains of course. It’s amazing. We climb to a high point, Kate Bush playing away in my head. There are rugged sheep with black legs and faces. Green ferns, purple heather, white rocks and soft grasses. Deep tree’d valleys and way in the distance the blue sea. We park up along a quiet side road, our possie for the night.

England is providing us with such contrasts. Totally loving it. Scotland in a few more days and I’m really looking forward to that.

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