Tuesday 2nd April

Looking at the long range weather forecast we decide to change our loose plans. Instead of spending a couple of days exploring around Zadar, we’ll do it in one day, then skip down to Krka National Park to beat the rain.

First stop is a supermarket. This one is attached to a Mall. Suddenly you could be anywhere in the world. Although I’m beginning to despair of my clothing options, 2 choices of bottoms and 3 of tops, I’m not enthused to go clothes shopping. Groceries then we’re out of there.

Set course for Zadar, find parking, then wander down the hill to the old town. We’re getting critical, it’s not the nicest one we’ve experienced. The roads are wider, the buildings better cared for, the shops tourist focused. It is interesting to see classical Roman relics in place and know the site has been occupied since the 5th century but it’s a bit too clean, too presented. And lots of people! Nevertheless we loose ourselves wandering around, streets all smooth stones, plastered buildings with wooden shutters. Squares filled with tables and chairs, glimpses of the sea through archways and over the city walls.

The suburbia, where we parked was a brutal contrast. Minimalist Apartment blocks, scrappy laundry hung over fences and balconies. Betting agencies on every corner.

On the waterfront we find the Sea Organ. This was designed by a local architect, Nikola Basic, and uses the movement of the sea to create music. When a ferry or boat passes the wake increases the volume dramatically. Otherwise it’s quietly hypnotic. Nearby is another piece by him that uses solar power to create a light show representing the Solar system. You need to be there after dark to appreciate that one.

We then returned to our van and continued up the peninsula to a potential campsite, closed, then another and another. Now they are saying come back in May. Never mind, we’re free camping right outside the last one. He said ‘no one cares’. Would have liked wifi though. Our Vodafone plan clicks over tomorrow night and we’re both close to our limit.

A few more days in Croatia visiting Krka then Split and then we’ll head into Bosnia & Herzegovina.

Another beautiful morning….

We’re both sleeping really well. The bed comfortable and surprisingly roomy. Even after 35 years of living together, there is such pleasure in awaking side by side. And right now the knowledge that every sunrise is bringing a new day of discovery adds an exciting element.

Breakfast, a seaside walk, then we break camp and hit the road.

We drive south, winding our way through empty crumbling villages, past full cemeteries. The countryside alternating between rocky barren land and miles of orchards. Blocks of olives, grapes, plums and figs. There are unspoken stories here.

Roadworks. The tiny orange cones 20 metres apart. The roller driver in shorts and sandshoes. The worker leaning on his shovel within a cigarette in hand. A few orange jackets, dirty and faded. Your health and safety is your own concern here.

Then, like stepping over a line things change. Prosperity. We are nearing Krka National Park so the tourism dollar improves everything.

Free parking, just eat or drink in our Restaurant. No problem, due for coffee anyway.

Krka National Park. We pay 100 kuna each and board a boat for the 20 minute trip up to the start of the falls. Green, the trees and the water. A white heron wings past us and on ahead.

This isn’t like Plitvica. The boardwalks and tracks are more basic. You can step off them too, look for different viewpoints. There are concrete tables every few metres with hawkers selling nuts and oils. There are food stalls, restaurants and souvenir shops. There’s a coin operated turnstile on the toilets. The blacksmith building is selling tees ‘my Grandma went to Krka and all I got was this t-shirt’.

That being said, it’s still amazing, staggering. The waterfalls are more powerful, the pools turbulent. The volume of water is just staggering. I stand on a bridge, water fuming down at me from every angle before disappearing under my feet down a cauldron.

What looks like a grassy slope under trees has hundreds of small streams sweeping furiously around tree trunks and grass clumps.

A bigger drop thunders in your ears, eyes blinded by the white water.

A slower stream and you’re mesmerised by the vibrant green weed undulating under the water.

You can swim in the pool below the bottom waterfall. At this time of year only a few hardy fools braving the chilled water, making sure someone is capturing their efforts for the ‘gram.

We chat to some Americans, they were both born here. Revisiting the homeland. A quick google tells me lots of Croatia’s emigrated after WW1 and WW2 and in the 1990’s. Three wars have had some major effects on this country and its people.

And Greg’s photos –

Sunday 31st March

This morning a fisherman and his old dog wandered along. He is a vet, fought 5 years for Croatia. He won and is wearing his army jacket and hat with pride. When I asked if his life was better now than before, he replied ‘politicians, corruption’ with a shrug. So they are free from communism and the Serb’s but some things remain the same. He told me all the young people are leaving, going to work in Germany or Austria, even New Zealand. He shared his Rakija with me (8am!) and invited us back to his place for breakfast. We declined but it was an interesting meeting.

We meandered along some local roads, following our nose then set off for the coast. The roads wind along steep mountainsides descending down to sea level.

We rounded a bend and were flagged down by the policija. He showed us his radar,83kmh. Apparently we had entered a 50km zone. Certainly didn’t see a sign. Greg’s been complaining ever since we arrived in Croatia that he never knows what speed to drive at. Sometimes the GPS says one thing and a sign says something different. The signs are either very infrequent or bunched together with different numbers every 50 metres. He asked for our passports and while we fishing them out, asks ‘German?’ ‘New Zealand! we proudly exclaim. He steps back and waves us to go. Passports? No no, have a good day.

We reach the coast. That wicked wind has gone and it’s very pleasant. We explore up the coast a bit, stopping at a few different bays. Checked out a wonderful sounding campsite but it’s closed. Tossed up left or right and ended up in a camp right on the waters edge but no wifi. Seems a popular choice, there are already 4 other vans here. More than we’ve experienced anywhere before. Greg went for another swim while I lazed in the sun on the beach.

It’s Sunday so the big supermarket shop will have to wait, only small places open. Options & prices not as good so just buy the essentials for today. Found some rosemary growing on a walk so picked some. Snaffled some irises as well, the flowers on the table bringing some spring into the van. Their fragrance s quite strong but lovely.

The mountains behind us are sharp rocky ridges. People come here to free climb but for us it’s just a nice backdrop. The sun setting into the sea in a blaze of pink and purple. It’s warmer at night down here, won’t need the heater on tonight.

Had a quick call with my mum. Half the world away and 11 hours but the internet brings us close. She’s enjoying following our adventures online, quite different from her own travels.

It’s been 4 weeks since we left home, 15 days in Croatia. Been a good mix of touristy places and local, busy and relaxed. certainly never boring.

Every day the sun rises with possibilities. You just have to be open to them.

Greg’s photos from the last two days.

Saturday 30th March

Slept in this morning. After a nice hot shower and breakfast we wandered down a track opposite the camp to the local waterhole.

Clear pools with water cascading over little drops. The ruin of an old mill house providing a flat area to relax on, the mill stones visible on the bottom of a pool. A few bird calls but the prevailing sound is flowing water. The blue sky crisscrossed with lots of vapour trails. A plethora of colourful butterflies flutter about and fat bees buzz around the plum blossom. The trees have tiny green leaves appearing on the branch tips. Bare blackberry runners dangle into the waters edge.

Heading down the road we are stopped by a police checkpoint (we had been warned). They asked for our papers and inspected the van for refugees, under the bed, in the fridge, the bathroom & the cupboards. Then they took our papers to their vehicle to confirm the details. It took ages, he said they’re really busy today. Anyhow we checked out ok and were sent on our way.

Getting back off the tourist trail.

I think life is hard here, nearly every house is offering accomodation or food or drink, supplementing wages. The countryside is sparse and rocky, front yards may have a small flower bed but mostly the ground is scraggly tussock like grass with mole holes. Stone statues and stones. Buildings unfinished and buildings collapsing back to the ground. There are small stalls selling sir & med (cheese & honey) along the roads. No fences.

Had coffee in a tiny tiny village but it had a picnic table that could sit 120 people easily. Not sure why.

Two young girls lazing on a sunny stone wall splashing their toes in a stream. Their younger brothers running around finding bits of bark to float down under the old mill house and straight sticks to hit trees with. Their white & brown cat alternating between chasing them and sprawling in the shade. Idyllic childhood, simple pleasures, no devices. The sun is very warm, snowy mountains provide a contrasting backdrop.

Late lunch by a lake, no one for miles around. Will probably stay here tonight.

Daylight saving kicks in tonight. Doesn’t mean much when you’re living without watches. This time last year we were paddling down the Wanganui River. Good memories.

I lie on a platform over the water. The wood is rough beneath by fingers, the sunlight gentle on my face. Greg calls my name so he can grab a photo. I roll over and peer into the depths. Past the sun dappled water to the stones below. I think I can hear a frog but it’s probably a bird. Tomorrow we’ll reach the coast and its busyness but for now it’s totally serene.

Went for a walk around the lake. No tracks so just found our way. Blue mountain ranges in every direction. Dried grasses crunch underfoot. Field mice darting down holes before us. The bare trees are casting long shadows. Spotted big frogs, mature, young and eggs so I guess that’s what I was hearing before. Lots of deer prints in the dried mud so will have to keep an eye out at dusk.

Back at the van and time for a drink then cook dinner. An easy pasta I think. Need to hit a supermarket tomorrow. Supplies are getting low.

The setting sun brings in a lone fisherman. The whip of his rod, his silhouette and reflection adding ambience to my view as I cook. Not sure he’s having much luck.

Friday 29th March

Plitvice National Park is Croatia’s oldest park, being first designated in 1949. It’s quite large but the interesting part is the Lake area. It’s a very popular tourist attraction and right now it’s Chinese tourist bus loads piling through. We made sure we were there when the gates opened at 8am and the first bus load arrived a few minutes later. It’s very controlled with 8 set circular routes to follow, 4 from gate 1 and the same 4 from gate 2 which is halfway around.

Unfortunately the upper lakes were closed so there was only 2 options ( one from each gate). This option was the 2nd longest, ideally we would have gone for the 3rd longest. We managed to extend our route anyhow. We set off from gate one, walked the boardwalks past the lakes and waterfalls, did the boat trip but then instead of hopping on the shuttle back to the start we walked down a maintenance road back to where the boat went from and walked back along the boardwalks. Greg used one lens first time and the other going back. We ate a picnic lunch along one lake and merged out of the park just over 5 hours after we’d entered.

It was truely stunning, hundreds of cascading waterfalls falling from one pristine lake to the next. The lakes were crystal clear and unbelievable blue greens. There must be some minerals in it as the submerged logs had a thick yellow coating on them. The boardwalks skirt the edges of the lakes and climb over the waterfalls. In some places the noise is intense as the sound bounces back of the canyon walls along with the reflected shimmering of the moving water. There is a massive amount of water flowing through the area and it’s mesmerising staring into the cascades.

We climbed a side path up hundreds of stone steps to a viewpoint looking down on the one, Veliki Slap 78 metres. Croatia’s tallest waterfall. The bus tourists all skipped that path as they are lead quickly along, pausing to take the inevitable selfies. You’d pass by groups of them all with their heads down, eyes glued to a phone screen.

I seldom bother taking phone photos now, Greg’s always going to have much much better pics. There were other serious photographers there today, with all the gear, subtly checking out each other’s angles and equipment.

Photos probably don’t do justice anyway as it so much! Every step is a photo opportunity and you need to actually be here to get the scale of the whole thing. Needless to say Greg had taken some awesome photos, he’s culling very severely.

After that we went back to the camp we’d stayed at last night, did some serious washing and actually paid for the accommodation. Yesterday, they were like, just pay tomorrow. I felt quite weird driving off this morning knowing we hadn’t paid anything and could of just kept driving. When we did pay, he’s like, here have a drink. This is my homemade Plum schnapps. Potent! We then strolled up to the local bar for a few drinks while the washing dried. Back at the van and lentil Dahl for dinner. OMG so good! sometimes it just clicks and comes together perfectly. Thick, spicy, yum.

Tomorrow we’re going to head down to Zadar. Then Split and another waterfall park. Then we’ll probably go into Bosnia & Herzegovina.

Thursday 28th March

The wind certainly let itself be known overnight. You could hear it coming down the hill like a freight train. Sometimes it just swooped over or past the side of the van, other times it hit full on. Even the cutlery rattled in their drawer. So after a somewhat disturbed sleep we breakfasted then headed inland.

Up a amazing serpentine road, switching back on itself until we popped over the top. We were later told it was one of Croatia’s highest passes. Now here was the green countryside, or greenish anyway. Pastoral valleys with farmhouses scattered along the edges.

It seemed to me when their home got old, they built a new one next to it then left the old one to collapse into a pile of rubble.

We headed to the Plitvice Nature Park and called in to the information centre. Not going to go in today as the bus loads were already queuing up. Unfortunately the upper lakes are closed and they couldn’t say when they would reopen but the boats are running so we will make a full day of it anyway.

Then the decision of what to do today and where to go for lunch. As an aside to this, a friend Noeline had told us we HAD it go to Restoke. When I googled it, I came up with a place miles away but when I started googling local places of interest Restoke popped up so no question, we headed 18km up the road.

Great call! Thanks Noeline. Restoke is amazing. Hundreds of waterfalls flowing through (literally) under and around small wooden village buildings before the water drops off the cliffs into the Korana River. Think Rivendell come to life, well partly anyway. We ate lunch and then I was a camera widow for a few hours. Greg will be posting lots of photos later. We then had a beer & cider on a balcony overhanging a waterfall beside the bridge. Chatted to the young guy there about his country’s young history and football.

Would liked to have free camped there under the bridge but our fresh water tank is empty and the grey and black ones are full. And I really want a nice hot shower!

People rave about the Croatian Coast but so far we’ve been more impressed with the hinterland. The beaches may have lovely water but they’re all stone and concrete. Inland there are quaint villages, rivers and bridges, beautiful countryside, friendly people, unexpected ruins, vistas and other things waiting to be stumbled upon.

Woke a bit earlier than normal and moved the van to a fresh spot. Greg grabbing the opportunity to get sunrise photos for a change. A leisurely breakfast and morning stroll then business….

We’d emptied a gas bottle a couple of days ago but the local service stations wouldn’t exchange our German tank. Our wine growing host from the previous night had suggested a place that would refill the bottle but it wasn’t open on weekends. Today was Monday so we put the location in the GPS and set off. Down a driveway behind a house was a busy little building. They were great and filled our empty bottle then topped up the current one and all for about half we’d paid to swop a bottle in Austria. So many enterprising businesses being run from backyards. Is this a legacy of Communist rule?

We visited the local town proclaiming Roman ruins but they weren’t much.

Meandered down the coast and found a quiet spot metres from the sea to park up for lunch. Very very chilled, fresh bread, ripe tomatoes, crisp lettuce and white wine. And hummus! The hummus here is so good! Denser than back home. Lazed around then made coffee. Unlike NZ the seagulls don’t hang around. They remain floating on the sea. In fact no birds come around for our crumbs.

Moved on further down the coast to another spot for an afternoon stroll.

Then carried on further down to Pula, or at least the southern edge where we’ve parked up beside a little cove. Just parking on the side of the road but no signs forbidding camping tonight. The sun will set over the water again tonight. Oh and bonus, there is a small bar a few metres walk along. Drinks and wifi so I’m typing and Greg’s editing photos. Think we might eat our dinner down on the waters edge later.

The outlook for Tuesday, your guess as good as mine…

Rain woke me early hours of the morning. The overhead pine trees causing it to fall in irregular tones. C’est la vie. Que sera sera. Raindrops are falling on my….

But the sun rose on another clear morning sky. Moved on to a small bay for breakfast.

Our morning walk took us around the edge of that bay then we scrambled up a stony path to find ourselves at a huge huge resort – totally empty. Obviously waiting for the ‘season’ but it seems strange that such a huge place should be closed for half a year. Until coming through to the main entrance and seeing the sign. Naturalist! Guess it’s way to cold to get together in the all together.

I’ve just finished a book club book ( not the one I was meant to be reading this month) and it’s written from the viewpoint of an anguished poet about another anguished poet and life etc etc. I expect it’s been influencing my writing a little but I hope the words I’m writing float off the page and create images in your mind.

The Adriatic is amazingly clear. The sunlight projecting dappled lines over the white stony seabed. It’s also very gentle, no waves but the water level still rises and falls with every breath, covering and exposing the rocks with just gentle ripples.

Heading south now, back over to Rijeka but via a different route. Up and over a high mountain pass (Ucka) Snow again but that’s fine when the suns shining. The wind is bitterly cold up there tho. I admire the views from behind the windscreen. Greg gets out to take photos.

Went to Krk on the island of Krk. Parked amongst the roadworks and walked into the old town. Tuesday lunchtime, the place is closed. There are workmen repairing roads, people cleaning and painting. Everyone is gearing up for the tourists. Leaving us to wander down empty lanes between closed up buildings and skirting around dug up squares. Find a small coffee bar inside a castle wall for coffee then a little bakery and buy Burek, the Croatian version of a pie. Moving on.

God almighty, no one wants our business. Went to the small family run camp in Malinska we were planning on staying at and they’re ‘ no we’re closed. Come back next week or go to this other place 15km away’. We know that other place is closed too as we couldn’t even drive past it in Krk. So find another quiet little bay and free camp again. Damn,I was looking forward to wifi and a washing machine. Hopefully better luck tomorrow and I guess we’re saving money. Greg’s contemplating a swim. He has been mentioning it for a few days. It’s 13 degrees so he’s relating it to the mid winter swims at Pauanui with the Sorrells. I will take photos. Well he did and enjoyed it.

Different view tonight. Once again over water but this time we’re looking back at the mountain range we crossed this morning and the city of Rijeka below it. Will see the city lights tonight instead of the setting sun. Large container ships anchored up waiting their turn in the refinery at Bakar. A few more waves over here but still not much. The colours in the sky are just amazing. Very single night.

Life is good.

Enjoy where you’re, with every minute. Tomorrow is a privilege not a right.

Thinking about New Zealand and the response to the Terrorist attack. Firstly I’m very proud that how open and caring we all are being.

I’ve seen a couple of posts that we are turning into a Muslim society, going too far with the headscarves & call to prayer. I disagree. It’s like after a child has a nightmare or scary thing happen. You hold their hand, hug them and reassure them that they are ok. You also do what you can to ensure anything dangerous is dealt with.

As far as actual religion and beliefs, we are all one family. Islamic beliefs and Judaism split over an argument of which son Abraham sacrificed. Christianity came from Judaism via Saul. When you look at them both there are lots of commonalities. Headscarves? Look at Nuns. Call to prayer? Church bells. A month of fasting? Lent. The list goes on.

The degree of faith is tied in other things. Religion, like other areas, attract people looking to control others. Western religions separated welfare from religion which frees people to think more for themselves and about themselves. So religion has become less a way of life and more a conscious choice. In Islamic religions it is all very very tied together.

So when you look at a person, see them, not the clothes they wear or the way they live. And don’t judge difference as inferior.

No alarms. We wake when we wake and get up when we feel like it. A lovely long hot shower this morning. Advantage of staying in a Kamp. After filling and emptying the appropriate water tanks we drove for half an hour down to Rovinj. I’d sussed out a free place to park and it was only a 10 minute walk into the old town.

Being a Sunday it was relaxed. We lost ourselves in all the tiny criss-crossing lanes and stairways. Greg taking way too many photos. Better too many and edit them down than regret not pausing to snap a particular scene. Under foot are large smooth square stones. Slippery even in the dry.

We checked out the grand baroque Church of St Euphemia. I’m always hesitant to enter someone else’s place of worship, especially on a Sunday. But Greg, with his catholic upbringing bowls right in. Camera in hand. The remains of St Euphemia are there behind a statue of her holding the town in one hand and resting on the wheel she was tortured on back in 303AD.

Down at the waterfront we lunched and people watched. A group of Americans eating Hawaiian Pizza and drinking Coca-Cola. A young designer clad couple posing for their invisible audience. Young children being brats behind their parents backs. Italians demanding the best.

All the camps around this area don’t open until April or May so I found a recommended free camp spot. Ignore the ‘no camping’ picture at the start of the road, a few kilometres down we find a lovely headland. There are a couple of other motor homes here and quite a few picnickers. We’ve parked up a few feet from the waters edge and the sun will set right outside the side door.

Nervous moment when all the other campers leave at sunset. It’s illegal to free camp in Croatia with a possible 3000 kuna fine That’s 400 Euro! We move to a more discrete place under trees. Hopefully the police don’t come around. It is off season and all the local camping grounds are closed. We will get going a bit earlier tomorrow morning.

Morning update. We had a quiet night but in future for our piece of mind we won’t ignore No Camping signs. We’ll still free camp, no choice tonight anyway if we want to go to the area we plan.

Greg’s photos-

All day yesterday we could see a particular mountain ahead of us. When we checked in at 5pm we asked about it. Turns out it’s called Klek and features strongly in Croatian myths and fairytales. Legend says that god Volos turned the giant Klek to stone but Klek swore he would wake up and get his revenge. And you can hear him during thunderstorms. There are many fairy tales that tell about witches meeting up there. These tales have roots in the European witch hunts which went on in the 17th century and were very active in this area. Anyhow it’s about 30 minutes drive from camp so this morning we set off to see it.

We wound our way up a narrow road, snow about a foot deep on the edges. Reaching the settlement of Bjelsko we parked and set off on foot. A sign said it was about an hour to the base of the rocky summit and another 1/2 to climb the rock. We climbed for about 45 minutes to a ridge line where we could see the valleys on both sides before turning back. It had got to a point we were ankle deep in snow and it was slow going. The rocky outcrop didn’t look too much further on but we both were happy to concede we weren’t equipped for this sort of activity.

We’re now heading down towards the coast. But that means crossing mountains. The local roads switch back up and down steep valleys with tiny settlements top & bottom. We cross under and over the straight toll motorway many times and are glad to be doing the scenic route. Stopped for lunch in a small place that had bear, deer & roedeer prominently on the menu list. Drove to the planned camp and there’s no one around. The power points are all wrapped in plastic and the facility doors bolted over. There is washing on a second floor balcony but no one answers the door. Drove up to a parking area beside a lake with a huge dam at the end. Very quiet, pine & birch trees all around. A few patches of snow in the shade. No people but we are out of season. Went for a walk and had dinner. Think we’ll just stay here the night. Our batteries & water tanks are all good. Not a level area so using the blocks for the first time.

The sun setting is projecting colour over the water. Beautiful place. Cold.

Greg’s photos-

Saturday morning

Relaxing wake up in the morning. Sun shining on the lake, still old crusty snow behind us. After breakfast we program the GPS with a loose destination and it tells us to drove over the top of the dam and up a toboggan trail. Ok. About half way up we meet a car coming down! Thankfully they were able to back up a bit and onto a side path, not sure we could have managed backing all the way back down. We reached the road at the top then drove down down down down down without a single up section until we reached the coast at Rijeka.

Suddenly here were all the people and the traffic. We found a place to park and walked the boulevard around the waterfront stopping for coffee in a small Restoran . It’s a balmy 21 degrees. sun shining but still a nip in the wind. The water is cold.

Back to the van and we drove on round the coast, getting higher until we found ourselves at Hotel & Restoran Flanona. A small round building on a hairpin bend high above the Adriatic Sea. Lots of bikes in the car park. Obviously had to stop for a drink and camera opportunity. Hazy islands on the horizon.

From there we turned inland and left the population behind. We’re heading northwards and are seeing more Italian influences. The settlement names are ending in ‘ici’ not ‘ski’ or ‘vac’ and Greg noted the roof tiles have changed. There are olive trees, grape vines and the soil is redder.

Coming down a hill there is ruins in front of us so we pull in. There is a plaque but not in English. The only thing I understand is ‘1904’. Google tells me it’s the remains of the Basilica of Sophia and a village (or two?) abandoned due to the plague. In the near distance is the motorway whisking people on fast cars from A to B without stopping and experiencing these places.

Not too much further on and we arrive at our chosen site for the night. Driving in between the olive trees and past the grape vines I think we picked a good spot. Actually it’s a great spot, only 100 kuna for the night with all services (€13, $22NZD) We sampled his olive oil, his Merlot and his Malvazija, a local white wine variety. He is a structural engineer, this is his hobby and he produces just enough for himself and his visitors. He also was selling a yummy Walnut Liquor made by his family. Needless to say we purchased a good selection. He gave us a handmade bar of soap as a thank you. He says this is the best time of year and complains he’s becoming too popular in summer. It’s work work work when he should be relaxing on holiday. There is one other motor home here. An older German couple staying for 3 days.

Right now the setting sun is sending beams of golden light through the Olive tree branches onto the back of our van and I have my feet up, glass in hand, typing this. Pinch me – this is unbelievable. This is life. This is now. Greg’s trying to get photographs of the sun sinking into the sea. Spicy coated chickpeas with crisp coleslaw for dinner. Simple food. Simple life.

Greg’s photos –

We were going to continue our way down towards the coast but I read about an 11th century castle ruin sooooo. We have no deadlines so let’s just explore.

Drove to the quaint ( need to come up with some different descriptions!) little village of Somobor, parked and climbed the hill. It’s sort of a pinch yourself moment to be clambering around a 900 year old stone fortress. There’s no one else around but when you peer down over the battlements or through a small window you can see the village below. There is snow on the ground but it’s not cold, or at least not freezing. When we finished exploring every cranny, we followed the paths along the hill top through leafless trees. The only green being the ivy stretching far and wide. Finding another path down to the valley floor we made our way back to the van, changed our shoes then set off into the village centre.

Greg’s photos-

I’d read about the village delicacy and our previous camp host had recommended his favourite cafe. The village straddles a stream, currently running high, with bridges every few metres. Very pretty. Greg is struggling not to take the same sort of photos in every stop. In the market square we located the recommended place and went in. Coffee, not the best we’ve had but hey, whatever. The local delicacy is called Kremsnita and it’s like a custard square but the inner filling is whipped into a light frothy mix. The serving size is huge and it’s sweet and tasty. We turned a blind eye to the most likely animal products contained within. We are traveling with the specific intention of trying local foods and so obviously will not be 100% vegan all the time. We are having our own breakfasts in the van and buying yummy fresh breads to make lunches. Then cooking our own dinners so the non-vegan elements are the treats, or the unknown ingredients. So many products in the supermarkets have ‘vegan’ prominently displayed on front and today we even found vegan cheese. The wines probably aren’t vegan but I should do some research into that next time I have free wifi.

Bought some standard sized pillows today. We were furnished with European ones and with Greg’s height it isn’t working in the 2 metre long bed to have pillows that are nearly a metre square.

It’s illegal to free camp in Croatia so we’re been good and staying in proper camps so far. Even off season it’s not cheap, €20 to €25 a night so we may bend the rules somewhat along the way. I believe it will be dearer when we get down to the coast. The plus to the proper camps is that electricity & water is included. Tonight’s camp has the most impressive toilet/shower blocks. Could be in a hotel so we will try and get our moneys worth. Also has a washing machine & dryer so bonus.

Next day

Alas, the water in the showers wasn’t hot! Tepid at best. A brisk walk around the lake was needed to get the core temperature up again.

We then toddled on down rough local roads to Karlovac. Well the word quaint definitely doesn’t describe Karlovac. It’s bleak. Square concrete apartment block, old and dirty. The city centre was unattractive with many empty shops. So a very short walk around and we’re back to the van and moving on. Not far though, just to a grassy field beside the Korana River. Going to free camp here hopefully. Looking further afield a lot of the camp sites don’t open for the year until April so a good excuse to wing it a bit.

Early evening walk. A four lane motorway bridge crossing the river but without roads at either end. Piles of rubbish dumped against the tree line. Bullet holes in the house walls. Bloodied Croatian history is both ancient and fresh.

Back at camp. Sunset casting pinks and oranges on the water. White swans reflected with small ripples. A lone fisherman on an upturned bucket. A glass of red wine and dinner is nearly ready.

Greg’s photos-

The day after…

It’s Thursday. Greg asked so I looked at my phone. It’s not important in this way of traveling. No alarms, no deadlines. Nowhere we have to be.

A leisurely breakfast watching the swans & ducks. Then a few minutes drive to the local ‘Croatian War of Independence Museum’ a selection of vehicles in a circle. Some obviously homemade armoured vehicles. Some clearly not. A Mig plane. While I was learning to be a new mum, people round here were fighting for their lives.

Got told off for where we’d parked and how close to the wall behind us. Yes we were close, I’d directed Greg in backing in but we didn’t touch. Not sure exactly what his problem was. Anyhow we moved on.

Meandered our way through tree filled valleys, along side aqua coloured rivers. The roads rough and patched. The sky clear blue, with the constant vapour trails. In the distance snow capped mountains. Snow on the ground in patches. Stopped to photograph an amazing bridge and read about it’s construction and reconstruction. WW2 the culprit this time. Wandered around the park. Stopped for coffee in a bistro and watched a train curl its way around the hillside.

Now plugged in recharging the batteries and devices. Wifi so we can upload. The sign on the gate says they will register us at 5pm. A late lunch then we’ll go for a walk around the lake. See what we can see.

Fresh crops planted. Tractors plowing. Warm sun, icy wind. Shimmering sunlight on the lake. No people about. Just the odd dog walker or fisherman. Signs that this is a much different place in summer.

Rosemary growing behind the camp office. Think I’ll make Cauli Risotto for dinner tonight. With Croatian red wine of course.